Besides the continuous shot sound files I posted earlier, I played around with
a few other K-3 features.
I did another two ISO series, one with, one without high ISO NR turned on. All
full stops from ISO100 to 51200. (K-3 only, no more comparisons to the K-5ii).
I'll post those if anyone wants to see the results. In brief, there is noise at
higher ISO, in-camera NR may make a difference but post-processing is still
needed. But even I can get a decent ISO51200 image with a bit of LR4.2 effort.
I tried out the in-camera HDR. Like with the K-5, it offers the option of HDR
Auto, HDR1, HDR2, and HDR3. I am clueless as to what those designations are
supposed to mean, and neither manual has any hints. Unlike the K-5, the K-3
in-camera HDR works on RAW files.
1. In-camera HDR takes about 5-7 seconds of data processing time after
the three images have been shot.
2. The resulting file is in the 90-95mb size range. I don't now why.
That is like they just added the three original files together; where is the
processing?
3. A simple 3-shot bracket, exported to Photomatix, can be worked into
a good HDR, lots of variation possible, and it takes little time while shooting.
4. The in-camera HDR may be slow and lacking in processing options, but
it doesn't require heroic post-processing.
One of my experiments was to focus-stack a series of HDR shots of a still-life
similar to what I posted yesterday. I am loving the tonality and detail I am
getting!
This playing-around is not yet producing any images that are likely to pay for
the camera. But they are helping me get comfortable with the use of the camera.
So far I am quite disappointed by one thing. I had thought that I would stop
with one K-3 and keep one of my perfectly good almost new K-5ii's as my second
body & backup. But a couple of months ago I switched to a "back-button focus"
mode of shooting, have come to quite prefer that approach and am comfortable
using it. The K-3 moves the relevant AF button. Moves it to a better place
IMHO, but still, it is moved. In its old location is the Green Button.
Eventually I will learn to quickly almost-automatically find the new AF button
and not have my shooting concentration spoiled by inadvertent pushes of the
Green Button and the consequent screwing up of my carefully chosen balance
between ISO, Aperture, and Speed. And I can re-program the Green Button to not
do anything (which is a bit of a waste). But I seriously doubt that I can
quickly switch back and forth between the two bodies. So I need to either give
up my two-body style of shooting or I need a second K-3. But I really really ne
ed an updated computer to precess the K-3 files. . .
stan
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