> On May 10, 2016, at 1:20 AM, Larry Colen <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Stanley Halpin wrote:
>>> On May 9, 2016, at 10:37 PM, Larry Colen<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Stanley Halpin wrote:
>>>>> On May 9, 2016, at 8:55 PM, Larry Colen<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Stanley Halpin wrote:
>>>>>> In sum, the 35/2.8, 40/2.8, and 55/1.4 all seem to have value when used
>>>>>> with the K-1, without too much compromise.
>>>> And the evidence…
>>>>
>>>> A small gallery here. I didn’t keep these full size as the vignetting at
>>>> question is visible, or not, even at reduced image size.
>>>>
>>>> The first image is from the 24/2.0 [Yes Larry, NOT 1.4] to show the scene.
>>>> Then one or more shots from the DA 15mm, 35mm macro, 40mm, and 55mm and
>>>> one from the 50-135/2.8.
>>> I was wondering if it might be a Samyang.
>>>
>>>> http://photos.stanhalpin.com/p1033969621
>>> Thanks a bunch. At first I thought that they were all vignetting down the
>>> left side, then I realized that was a tree trunk.
>>
>> Sorry about that. Not a good setup. After initial setup (with a longer lens)
>> I never looked through the viewfinder. Just swapped lenses, did a sequence
>> of shots, repeat for i = 1 to p where p=# of lenses.
>> But even with the dark tree trunk you can still get a sense of the vignette
>> effect (or not).
>>> I'm bummed about the 50-135, that is a range I need in FF for photographing
>>> tests at my dojo. I guess I'll just use the 28-75 in crop mode for now.
>>
>> Which part of the 50-135 range are you actually using? And are you just
>> thinking about focal length? Or equivalent field of view? My guess would be
>> that on the K-1 the FOV you want would put you the long end of the 50-135
>> and so it might work out alright…
>
> On APS, I use the 28-75, and would appreciate both wider and longer, so that
> would be 42-105 on FF. That is why I thought that 50-135 would be a nice
> range on FF. Wider is more important than longer, because I can crop.
>
> So, a 24-70 on FF and one on APS and switching between the two might work.
> :-)
An alternate strategy to think about:
As Bill mentioned, you have an option on the K-1 to shoot full frame,
APS-C crop, or Auto. The new little mode dial makes it easy to switch. So get
the K-1, get the D FA 24-70/2.8. Use it full frame. Except when you force it to
crop mode, and then you have a 42-105…
The open question is how good the K-1 is as a pseudo APS-C camera compared with
the K-5 or K-3. Is it as good or better even in this mode? [For values of
good/better which lie somewhere in a multidimensional space with dimensions
such as Resolution, Tonality, Resistance to noise at High ISO, Dynamic Range,
etc.]
stan
>
>
> --
> Larry Colen [email protected] (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
>
>
> --
> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
> [email protected]
> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow
> the directions.
--
PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
[email protected]
http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow
the directions.
