There are a couple of low-buck solutions.  One is a dumb speedlight with  an IR 
filter over it so it doesn't affect the image.

The other is a bunch of $10 yongnuo triggers. I've had bad luck with their 
"high end" speedlights, but their cheap triggers are brilliant.

On April 22, 2018 10:46:31 AM PDT, Bruce Walker <[email protected]> wrote:
>Mark, what you experienced is one of the reasons I don't recommend
>folks
>try that popup flash triggering hack. The other of course is the light
>pollution from the popup flash getting into the shot and flattening the
>contrast.
>
>But you have at least two possible issues with each student's camera:
>the
>x-TTL pre-flash, and the "red eye reduction" pre-flash. Either or both
>of
>these might be enabled in any given camera.
>
>The xTTL preflash is usually enabled even if manual exposure is in use
>because of the possibility for remote flash control. I used to use that
>feature with the K20D and the K-3 as a poor man's remote trigger. No
>danger
>of the popup flash appearing in the shot because it doesn't fire when
>the
>shutter is open.
>
>But it only works with flashes that support a pre-flash -- manufacturer
>dependent timing -- and some newer Chinese strobes that can be set to
>ignore 1-n pre-flashes.
>
>
>BTW, most PCB strobes come with a really long old-school PC-Sync cable.
>That might have helped with any of the students cameras that have a
>sync
>socket.
>
>-- 
>-bmw
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