I mentioned Gertrude Bell in my "Turk-bashing season" post. Have a look at
her diaries (www.gerty.ncl.ac.uk), especially 1920. Apparently they've
become compulsory reading at the Pentagon. I can't imagine why, since they
offer abundant proof that US imperialists will never be a match for the TE
Lawrences, Gertrude Bells, Colonel Noels, and other resourceful agents of
intrigue who served the perfidious empire. Better that the "bombers," as
Powell calls them, should read Greene's The Quiet American.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/Print/0,3858,4623203,00.html
Miss Bell's lines in the sand
She was an archaeologist, a linguist and the greatest woman mountaineer of
her age. And in Baghdad in 1921 she drew the boundaries of the country that
became Iraq. James Buchan on the extraordinary life of Gertrude Bell

James Buchan
Wednesday March 12, 2003
The Guardian

In British diplomatic group photographs of the early 20th-century Middle
East, amid the plumes and uniforms and the calm paraphernalia of an empire
going to hell in a bucket, there is often a solitary female. The woman is
slim, with a head of luxuriant hair, and neatly dressed in billowing muslins
or in the pencil silhouette and cloche hats of jazz-age Baghdad.

The woman is Gertrude Bell, who is as responsible as anybody for the rickety
national state first known as Mesopotamia, and now as Iraq. As a powerful
official of the British administration in Baghdad after the first world war,
Bell ensured that an Arab state was founded from the three Ottoman provinces
of Mosul, Baghdad and Basra, but one which was too weak to be independent of
Britain. "I had a well-spent morning at the office making out the southern
desert frontier of the Iraq," she wrote to her father on December 4 1921.

One of Oxford University's most brilliant students, the greatest woman
mountaineer of her age, an archaeologist and linguist, passionate, unhappy
and rich, Bell saw in Arab male society, and what US President Woodrow
Wilson called "the whole disgusting scramble" for the Middle East after the
first world war, opportunities that were unthinkable at home.

John Buchan, in his novel Greenmantle (1916), and TE Lawrence in his
guerrilla exploits in Arabia the following year, made popular a myth that an
Englishman could become an Arab - only more so. To her generation in
Britain, Bell went one better. She seemed to move as an equal among the
sheikhs without compromising her British femininity. Her letters to her
father and stepmother, one of the great correspondences of the past century,
pass easily from orders for cotton gowns at Harvey and Nichols [sic] to the
new-fangled British air warfare being tried out on recalcitrant Iraqi Arabs
and Kurds.

The historical waters have closed over TE Lawrence. Even back in the 70s, I
could find nobody with any recollection of him at the scenes of his exploits
in western Arabia. But "Miss Bell" is still a name in Baghdad. Even in
conversations with the vicious and cornered cadres of Saddam Hussein's
regime, her name will come up to evoke, for a moment, an innocent Baghdad of
picnics in the palm gardens and bathing parties in the Tigris.

Yet Bell and her superior as British high commissioner, Sir Percy Cox, laid
down policies of state in Iraq that were taken up by Saddam's Arab Ba'ath
socialist party. Those policies were to retain, if necessary by violence,
the Kurdish mountains as a buffer against Turkey and Russia; to promote
Sunni Muslims and other minorities over the Shia majority; to repress the
Shia clergy in Najaf, Kerbela and Kazimain, or expel them to Iran; to buy
off the big landowners and tribal elders; to stage disreputable plebiscites;
and to deploy air power as a form of political control. "Iraq can only be
ruled by force," a senior Ba'ath official told me in 1999. "Mesopotamia is
not a civilised state," Bell wrote to her father on December 18 1920.

The Ba'ath is facing extinction. Any US civil and military administration in
its place will have the precedent of Bell's 1920 white paper (typically, the
first ever written by a woman), Review of the Civil Administration of
Mesopotamia. Sixteen volumes of diaries and about 1,600 letters to her
parents, transcribed and posted on the web by the University of Newcastle
library (www.gerty.ncl.ac.uk) are a must-read at the Pentagon, less for
their portrait of an oriental culture in its last phase as for their
perilous mingling of political insight and blind elation.

Gertrude Margaret Lowthian Bell was born on July 14 1868 in Washington, Co
Durham. Her family were ironmasters on a grand scale, with progressive
attitudes. In 1886, Bell went up to Lady Margaret Hall, Oxford, where she
was the first woman to win a first-class degree in modern history. Unwanted
in the marriage market - too "Oxfordy" a manner, it was said - she taught
herself Persian and travelled to Iran in 1892, where her uncle was British
ambassador.

She wrote her first travel book, Persian Pictures, and translated the
libertine Persian poet Hafez into Yellow Book verse. She also fell in love
with an impecunious British diplomat, who was rejected by her father. Though
she was to form passionate attachments all her life, she kept them under
rigid formal restraint.

The next decade she killed in two round-the-world journeys and in the Alps,
where she gained renown for surviving 53 hours on a rope on the unclimbed
north-east face of the Finsteraarhorn, when her expedition was caught in a
blizzard in the summer of 1902. She had begun to learn Arabic in Jerusalem
in 1897, wrote about Syria, and taught herself archaeology. She immersed
herself in tribal politics and in 1914 made a dangerous journey to Hail, a
town in northern Arabia that was the headquarters of a bitter enemy of
Britain's new ally, the founder of Saudi Arabia, Abdul Aziz ibn Saud.

With the outbreak of war that summer, and the entry of the Ottoman empire on
the side of Germany that November, Bell was swept up with TE Lawrence and
other archaeologist-spies into an intelligence operation in Cairo, known as
the Arab Bureau. In Iraq, an expeditionary force from India had surrendered
to the Turks at Kut al-Amara on the lower Tigris in 1916. Bell travelled to
Basra, where a new army was assembling. When Baghdad fell to the
reinforcements in 1917, she moved up to the capital and was eventually
appointed Cox's oriental secretary, responsible for relations with the Arab
population.

British policy in the Middle East was in utter confusion. While the
government of India wanted a new imperial possession at the head of the
Persian Gulf, London had made extravagant promises of freedom to persuade
the Arabs to rise up against the Turks. The compromise, which was bitterly
resented in Iraq, was the so-called League of Nations Mandate, granted to
Britain in 1920.

Senior Indian officials, such as the formidable AT Wilson, argued that the
religious and tribal divisions in Iraq would for ever undermine an Iraqi
state. Bell believed passionately in Arab independence and persuaded London
that Iraq had enough able men at least to provide an administrative facade.
But she had two blind spots. She always overestimated the popularity of Cox
and herself, and she underestimated the force of religion in Iraqi affairs
and the Shia clergy "sitting in an atmosphere which reeks of antiquity and
is so thick with the dust of ages that you can't see through it - nor can
they".

On June 27 1920, she was writing: "In this flux, there is no doubt they are
turning to us." In fact, the Shia tribes of the entire middle Euphrates rose
in revolt the next month, and hundreds of British soldiers and as many as
8,000 Iraqis were killed before it could be suppressed. The next spring,
Winston Churchill called a conference in Cairo, where Bell - the only woman
among the delegates - had her way. The Hashemite Prince Faisal, a protege of
TE Lawrence who had been ousted by the French in Syria, was acclaimed King
of Iraq in a referendum that would not have shamed the Ba'ath. The "yes"
vote was 96%. In place of the mandate, an Anglo-Iraqi treaty was railroaded
through the Iraqi parliament.

Bell was carried away. "I'll never engage in creating kings again; it's too
great a strain," she wrote with uncharacteristic vanity. She fell prey to
Iraqi flattery and was given the nickname Khatun, which means fine lady or
gentlewoman. "As we rode back through the gardens of the Karradah suburb,"
she told her father on September 11 1921, "where all the people know me and
salute me as I pass, Nuri [Said] said, 'One of the reasons you stand out so
is because you're a woman. There's only one Khatun... For a hundred years
they'll talk of the Khatun riding by.' I think they very likely will."

Yet she could also attend a display of the force being deployed by the RAF
on the Kurds around Sulaimaniya: "It was even more remarkable than the one
we saw last year at the Air Force show because it was much more real. They
had made an imaginary village about a quarter of a mile from where we sat on
the Diala dyke and the two first bombs dropped from 3,000ft, went straight
into the middle of it and set it alight. It was wonderful and horrible. Then
they dropped bombs all round it, as if to catch the fugitives and finally
fire bombs which even in the brightest sunlight made flares of bright flame
in the desert. They burn through metal and water won't extinguish them. At
the end the armoured cars went out to round up the fugitives with machine
guns."

Bell was never liked, either in London or New Delhi, and when Cox left
Baghdad in 1923, she lost her bureaucratic protector. She devoted more of
her time to her old love, archaeology, and established the Baghdad
Archaeological Museum which, remarkably, has survived. Her letters home were
more and more dominated by illness and depression. On Monday July 12 1926,
quite suddenly, Gertrude Bell died.

The official story was that years of gruelling work in the 49C (120F) heat
of the Baghdad summer had proved too much for "her slender stock of physical
energy". In fact, she took an overdose of sleeping pills, by accident or by
intention. She is buried in Baghdad.

Thanks to crude oil, found in commercial quantities at Kirkuk in 1927, the
little Iraqi monarchy survived Turkish intrigue, Saudi aggression and
repeated uprisings, the worst in 1941 when pro-German officers drove the
king and Nuri Said, the prime minister, into exile. But the collapse of
British power and prestige at Suez in 1956 marked the end of the road.
Faisal II and the royal family were murdered in a republican coup d'etat on
July 14 1958.

The Iraq of Gertrude Bell had lasted 37 years. The Ba'ath finally seized
power in 1968, built a prosperous despotism in the 1970s but destroyed
itself and the country in hopeless military adventures in Iran in the 1980s
and Kuwait in 1990. As of yesterday, Ba'athist Iraq had lasted 35 years.

Bell's letters home

Whenever there was snow we sank in it up to the waist... I nearly took a
straight cut on to the glacier, for I slipped on a bit of iced rock into a
snow gully till the rope fortunately caught me. We all cut our hands over
that incident, but it was otherwise the most comfortable part of the
descent.
The Alps, 18 July 1902

Such an arrival! Sir Percy made me most welcome and said a house had been
allotted to me... a tiny, stifling box of a place in a dirty little bazaar.
Fortunately, I had not parted from my bed and bath. These I set up and
further unpacked one of my boxes which had been dropped into the Tigris and
hung out all the things to dry on the railing of the court.
Baghdad, April 20 1917

I don't think I shall ever be able to detach myself permanently from the
fortunes of this country.... it's a wonderful thing to feel the affection
and confidence of a whole people round you. But oh to be at the end of the
war and to have a free hand!
Baghdad, May 26 1917

Until quite recently I've been wholly cut off from [the Shias] because their
tenets forbid them to look upon an unveiled woman and my tenets don't permit
me to veil... Nor is it any good trying to make friends through the women -
if they were allowed to see me they would veil before me as if I were a man.
So you see I appear to be too female for one sex and too male for the other.
Baghdad, March 14 1920

Have I ever told you what the river is like on a hot summer night? At dusk
the mist hangs in long white bands over the water; the twilight fades and
the lights of the town shine out on either bank, with the river, dark and
smooth and full of mysterious reflections, like a road of triumph through
the midst.
Baghdad, September 11 1921

· James Buchan has reported from the Middle East since the 70s.

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