Full at http://cheapmotelsandahotplate.org/2012/08/25/california-dreaming/
"I walked out onto a rocky pier and sat watching the surfers. They reminded me
of seals, bobbing up and down, carried by the relentless rush of the ocean.
Then the right wave came in, and they gracefully rose up on their boards and
glided along until it ended. I thought that it must be good to be a surfer,
always knowing that sooner or later you would catch that wave." . . .
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