http://www.maysaloon.org/2013/09/a-eulogy-for-damascus-bourgeoisies.html

Tuesday, September 03, 2013
A Eulogy for the Damascus Bourgeoisies

Spare a thought for those Syrians in their expensive cars as they drive 
to and from Beirut every time the tensions rack up. I mean how bad must 
it be for them to have to inconvenience their lovely mundane lives in 
the well protected posh districts of Damascus and come face to face with 
the kind of Syrians that they have spent the last forty years ignoring. 
That's right, you know who I am talking about. I'm talking about the 
small people who have cleaned your houses, washed your cars, delivered 
your groceries and are the unwitting subjects of your mediocre 
photographic skills and nostalgic writings. Yes, those Syrians, the ones 
that don't have enough money to drive straight through the Masnaa' 
crossing area and have to squat down in the sun whilst the Lebanese 
border guards beat them with hoses to keep everybody in line.

Your Syria is the Syria of jasmine and cardamom, of "mosaics" and 
thousand year old temples built by long dead civilizations that have 
nothing to do with you. Their Syria is of shanty towns, plastic, and 
diesel fumes. You don't know this, but Syrians are the Mexicans of 
Lebanon. They squat and stand at the street corners waiting for somebody 
to drive by in the pick up and hire a bunch of them to clean out his 
backyard or do some other menial work. But your nostrils only flare with 
indignation when you are the one discriminated against, when your visa 
gets turned down or your promotion is delayed. Only then do you make up 
the myth that the reason Syrians are despised is because out of all the 
Arab nationalities it is the Syrians that refuse to bow. Well I have 
news for you Mr Proud Syrian who won't bow. We have been bowing for 
forty years whilst you sipped your black coffee on the balcony in 
Damascus and wrote your bad poetry - and we will still bow because 
Syrians have always been treated like dirt in their own country. You 
just didn't notice because you were able to pay a bribe not to bow, at 
least not physically.

I have other news for you. The Damascus you think is the centre of the 
universe is actually an insignificant speck that nobody had heard of 
until the revolution showed the whole world our warts and dirty laundry. 
Nobody cares about what Mark Twain said of Damascus, or about the 
socialites who stopped by this or that place. You were a quaint little 
stopover that they forgot about as soon as they left, remembered more 
because people wanted to preserve everything they said than because what 
they said about your city was important. If you dig down deep enough you 
aren't even from this city. Nobody really is. It's been raped and 
pillaged so many times in history that you're really just the descendant 
of rural labourers who now has the luxury of despising the newer rural 
labourers moving into the capital. And you don't even see the irony in 
all this.

Didn't you just love when you could sit with those foreigners as an 
equal in Bab Touma and talk about politics, art and society? About how 
Syria is the land of churches and minarets, about our lovely tolerance 
and how we were urbane Levantines in the "oldest continuously inhabited 
city in the world" with a five thousand year history? Did you ever 
realise that your entire life was about taking credit for what others 
have done? It never struck you as odd that you and everybody else around 
you could only exist because your parents had connections and money, and 
you never thought it odd that whatever you did, if you were unlucky to 
have just that Syrian passport that you are so proud of, you would have 
only found work in the family business? No, that wasn't odd at all? 
Strange perhaps? How silly of me, of course it wasn't when that was all 
you ever knew. You might have gone abroad to study and seen a bit of the 
world, but you came right back to that safe little world, because deep 
down you were scared of getting out there on your own.

Then your chest would burst with pride at your "British educated" first 
lady while she treated the entire country like one giant fashion 
accessory. You'd talk about the "Doctor" and about his wisdom and 
humility, about how he would walk into the restaurants and mingle with 
the normal people. When somebody mentioned Syria you would always say 
"We", and you never thought for an instant, you poor soul, that it was 
never a "We", just a "Them". You were an accessory to fit into their 
little doll house of a Syria that was a "mosaic". Their Syria was a 
quaint little place to be mentioned in a travel brochure. A country that 
you were taught from a young age to have a manifest destiny, just like 
every other joke of an Arab state around us. Maybe that's why Arab 
governments hate each other so much? They see in each other the frauds 
that they have become.

So I'm sorry about your jasmine and your magically long Damascus nights. 
About the cool aniseed drinks and skewers of kebabs. The religious 
tolerance and the mosaic of cultures that you could show off to the 
world as if it were your own. I'm also sorry you never saw the shanty 
towns, the desperate people sitting in crowds outside of government 
hospitals waiting to be treated or for their loved ones, the queues for 
bread and government handouts, the girl selling chewing gum at the 
traffic lights, or the young labourers who had to leave their drought 
ridden villages and become casual labourers in Lebanon. Maybe if you saw 
all of that before the revolution started then you might have stopped 
and thought a little bit about why you were living and why things were 
the way they were.

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