Oh, and you can also freeze the wood if you have a freezer that is big enough.
Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 24, 2021, at 12:53 PM, Voron, Joel <[email protected]> wrote: > > Dear Leslie; > Bora-care is a cheap way to treat wood. It is a low toxicity boric acid based > concentrate that would need to be mixed(there are ratios on the label for > control pests and life stages) and sprayed by a professional in most areas. > Dries clear. Once dry you can paint and stain over it. We tried the leave it > in plastic thing here and it failed to get the core of wood up to temp even > after baking in the Virginia July heat so mileage may vary with those > attempts. A kiln would work if you can pick up the wood pretty quickly after > it comes out of the kiln. One false hope and misconception is buying kiln > dried wood from a mill as it is then placed outside on open racks with only > roofs covering the wood in 99.9% of mills and it sits and then can become > re-infested. Good luck. JTV > > > Joel Voron Colonial Williamsburg Foundation > Conservation Dept. > Integrated Pest Management Specialist > Office 757-220-7080 > Cell 757-634-1175 > E-Mail [email protected] > > > > > > ________________________________________ > From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of > Anderson, Gretchen <[email protected]> > Sent: Friday, September 24, 2021 1:41 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [PestList] Pre-treatment of Exhibitry > > [CAUTION: This message originated from outside the Foundation. Do not click > links, open attachments or take action unless you know the contents are safe] > Yes, but it needs to get to about 150 deg. Use black plastic to absorb the > heat. If the weather is not cooperating, see if you can find a lumber company > with a a wood kiln. OR - if the budget allows, get a “warming oven” from a > restaurant supply house. This will get to the correct temperature. This is > the kind of warming oven that caters use, on wheels and about5-6 feet high. > It can also be used for conditioning silica gel. You might be able to rent > one. > > Let me know if you need more info, and I will send you info when I am > at a computer. > Gretchen Anderson > Carnegie Museum of Natural History > [email protected] > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 23, 2021, at 6:01 PM, Voron, Joel <[email protected]> wrote: > > Will the fence start as raw wood and then be painted, stained, or finished? > > > > > > > Joel Voron Colonial Williamsburg Foundation > > Conservation Dept. > > Integrated Pest Management > > Office 757-220-7080<tel:757-220-7080> > > Cell 757-634-1175<tel:757-634-1175> > > E-Mail [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> > > > > > > [X] > > On Sep 23, 2021, at 4:16 PM, Ulisses Mello <[email protected]> wrote: > > > [CAUTION: This message originated from outside the Foundation. Do not click > links, open attachments or take action unless you know the contents are safe] > Dear Leslie; > > Wapping the fence in black plastic sheet and l keeping under a sunny day > might to be the fastest, cheapest and practical way .( heating treatment) . > > Best regards, > Ulisses Mello > CEO, Dip. Cons., PG > > Em qui., 23 de set. de 2021 às 13:59, Leslie Ochoa > <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> escreveu: > Hello all, > > My museum is developing an exhibit and the designer would like to fabricate > wooden fencing as part of the exhibit entrance. What would be the > recommended pre-treatment of such fencing wood so as to eliminate any > potential pests? Would low-temperature, anoxic or chemical treatment work > best? Does anyone have experience with this? > > Thanks for your advice, wisdom and insight. > > ~ Leslie > > <image002.jpg> > Leslie M. 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