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Dear Forrest,

Shrink wrapping or otherwise decreasing the empty volume of the bagged
material before low temperature treatment for disinfestation is a frequent
question, but it is generally unnecessary for the following reasons:

1) Causes unintended distortion of the object. Mitigating this problem with
support frames adds empty space (defeats shrink wrapping) and takes time
and resources better spent on the next few objects. You do not want to flex
objects when they are cold, to prevent damage to any embrittled polymers.
Normally such polymers will go through low temperature treatment without
problems.

2) The film is put in intimate contact with the object - and condensation
if it occurs will be close to the object. Condensation occurs on the
coldest surface first - and freely suspended film meets that criteria as
the object supplies heat as the package cools so any small amount of
condensation is away from the object surface (warm) and on the film surface
(cold).  The amount of moisture condensing from room temp air at 50%RH is
rather small and generally managed by the (cool) film surface, or
adsorption with the organic portion of the object.

It is instructive to know the real numbers involved. The exchange we are
talking about is 8.6 grams water per cubic meter at 20C, 50%RH, going down
to 0.5 grams per cubic meter at -20C, 50%RH. 20 drops of water is roughly a
gram (ml, cc) which translates to less than 20 drops of water in 100 litres
of air (approx. the same in quarts) or one drop per 5 litres of air. This
is my definition of 'rather small'. Compare this to common moisture
contents of 8% of the objects mass, which will likely measure in
kilograms/pounds.  The total amount of water being condensed is trivial
because it is spread over the bag surface, let alone being absorbed by the
object.

On rewarming, the coldest spot over time will be the object. This sounds
perilous, but it is not. The bulk of the air is demanding more moisture at
this point as it warms, as the heat is taken on slowly by the object
compared to the free suspended part of the film which changes temperature
quickly so any moisture deposited on the surface of the free film will
satisfy the headspace air quickly and mitigate demand on the thinner fast
responding portions of the object.   This is why I recommend a single sheet
of tissue, or fabric as buffer wrapping if you suspect the surface is very
sensitive to moisture. It will intercept the problem and respond quickly.
Also the object will warm on its outside surface, and organics self
insulate, cutting off the problem of the large thermal gradient and the
driving force behind the condensation risk.

3) More time to do than it is generally worth. Better to spend the time
protecting delicate objects headed for low temp treatment from handling
damage by boxing etc.

A great test to show yourself the real scope of the problem is to make
'worst case scenarios'. Fill an empty polythene bag with room air (don't
blow into it to make it) and then put it in the freezer.  Look for the
condensation. Play with adding organic matter. By 10 kg (5 pounds) per
cubic meter of air volume (cubic yard) you  will have reestablished
significant control of the cavity moisture. That is still a pretty spacious
bag given the common density of wood, paper etc.

Sincerely,
Tom Strang

Canadian Conservation Institute | Institut canadien de conservation
Senior Conservation Scientist | Scientifique principal en conservation
Institut Canadien de Conservation | Canadian Conservation Institute
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, K1A 0M5

[email protected]
Téléphone | Telephone 613-998-3721 (extension 239)
Télécopieur | Facsimile 613-998-4721
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1-888-997-3123







                                                                       
             "Forrest St.                                              
             Aubin"                                                    
             <forr...@saintaub                                          To
             inbce.com>                [email protected]        
             Sent by:                                                   cc
             pestlist-ow...@mu                                         
             seumpests.net                                         Subject
                                       Re: [pestlist]  Wrapping infested
                                       objects for freezing            
             06/12/2009 03:09                                          
             PM                                                        
                                                                       
                                                                       
             Please respond to                                         
             pestl...@museumpe                                         
                  sts.net                                              
                                                                       
                                                                       




Sorry, Tom.  What I had in mind was one of the vacuum cleaner-operated
storage bags, with which you could control the amount of evacuation and
shrinkage.

Forrest E. St. Aubin, BCE
Chair, ESA-ACE Oversight Committee
Liaison, ESA/NPMA
12835 Pembroke Circle
Leawood, Kansas 66209
Phone: 913.345.2114
Fax: 913.345.8008
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.saintaubinbce.com

"Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower".

Steve Jobs, Apple Co-founder


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
Date: 06/12/2009 01:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [pestlist] Wrapping infested objects for freezing

Forrest -

True shrink-wrapping requires a heat gun; not a good idea with artifacts.
Even if no heat gun were used, such a tight-fitting wrap may damage an
artifact.

Tom Parker

-----Original Message-----
From: Forrest St. Aubin <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 1:55 pm
Subject: Re: [pestlist] Wrapping infested objects for freezing

Tom,  Would there be any pluses or minuses to shrinkwrapping prior to
freezing?

Forrest E. St. Aubin, BCE
Chair, ESA-ACE Oversight Committee
Liaison, ESA/NPMA
12835 Pembroke Circle
Leawood, Kansas 66209
Phone: 913.345.2114
Fax: 913.345.8008
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.saintaubinbce.com

"Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower".

Steve Jobs, Apple Co-founder


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
Date: 06/11/2009 04:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [pestlist] Wrapping infested objects for freezing

Randi -

The key to successful freezing is to take the object from room temperature
and crash the temp.  You are attempting to reach 32 F in four hours.  That
beats any insect or egg to its self-defenses.  If you're not sure you've
been successful, then remove the item after 72 hours, let it warm to room
temperature for a day or so, and then repeat the process.

Tom Parker


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 10:13 am
Subject: Re: [pestlist] Wrapping infested objects for freezing

Hi!

Something I have heard that I've not seen mentioned.

We bag items to be frozen in plastic bags- usually they are paper based in
record size boxes. For routine, precautionary freezing before going to
storage we do not bag until just before freezing, as I have heard that
insects can react to the change in atmosphere from bagging and prepare
themselves to withstand freezing more easily. It is like they make
antifreeze in response. We bag and load in less than an hour, not bagging
too much at one time.

I don't remember where I learned this. Has anybody else heard this?

Randi Sue Smith
Curator
DC Booth Historic National Fish Hatchery and Archives
US Fish and Wildlife Service
423 Hatchery Circle
Spearfish, SD 57783
605-642-7730 ext. 215
fax 605-642-2336

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