Andy nails it, of course. I do have one no-brainer trick I learned from an auto mechanic, though, which I've had luck with twice so far: measure the diameter as precisely as you can, then soak the idler wheel in brake fluid for a good long while (as old as yours will be, I'd say a month at least) and the rubber should expand and soften. Once that happens, find a way to spin it in a stable situation so you can file the outside perimeter back to the original dimension with assorted fine sandpaper and/or emory files (or whatever precision files you may have). Both are timely processes, but time is the only thing it'll cost ya.
-Robert ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Baron" <[email protected]> > Hi Ken ~ > Antique Electronic Supply in Tempe, AZ sells a 3.5 oz bottle of > Rubber Renue for $5.95, part number S-C220. It's described as > follows: Removes dead rubber from old rubber surfaces to clean and > revitalize idler wheels, belts and pinch rollers. > > If the rubber isn't too far gone (if it isn't rock hard), this will > probably do the trick. You keep wiping it on the edge of the wheel > and rubbing it off until the rag stops coming up black. It should > restore the tack to the surface. A less graceful "repair" can also > be accomplished with Belt & Drive Non-Slip (part # S-C10-8602, > $5.75. This is basically a tacky coating that you paint around the > edge of the rubber. I prefer not to use this except as a last > resort. In the old days, Non-Slip was a quick and dirty fix. > > Neither of these products will address the next most likely cause of > uneven running, which is dust and dirt getting in the following > places: Motor armature shafts and bushings, idler wheel shaft and > bushing, platter thrust washer and bearings (after removing the > platter, you'll see a shiny metal washer around the bottom of the > spindle shaft. Lift this out with a dental pick or appropriate tool, > and you'll get to the caged ball bearings underneath), and don't > forget to clean and oil the inside diameter of the platter hole, and > the outside of the shaft that it revolves around. If this machine is > a 3-speed changer, you may also have small wide belts that connect > the armature shaft to intermediate rollers, or additional rollers all > of which get treated with the rubber revitalizer. Some 3-speed > changers have just the one idler wheel between the armature shaft and > the inside rim of the platter. Don't forget to clean the inside rim > of the platter, and be sure to avoid getting any oil on any of the > rubber or it's drive surfaces, when oiling the shafts and bushings. > > It takes an hour or two to recondition these old turntables, and most > of them will reward you with renewed performance. If the rubber is > too far gone, there are sources for rebuilding idler wheels. > > Hope that helps. > > Andy Baron
