I have to agree with Peter! I don't think there is any finer sound on disc from that era than Edison's condensite surfaces. Especially after 1919, when he was able to get the needed material now that the war was over. I think the recording method of sound at the bottom of the grooves, rather than the side, is a plus as well. Not to mention, no changing pins!!!!
Bill -------------- Original message -------------- From: Peter Fraser <[email protected]> > careful! napoleon might hear of your dissent and 86 you. be > afraid...quake in your boots...kowtow to the master...oh, wait! the > emperor has no clothes! > > oops, there i go with the negativity. sorry. > > in other news, then, ever notice how great diamond discs sound? gee, > they bring a smile to my lips just about every time (unless it's one > of Old Tom's pet artistes). a major favorite: Alabamy Bound > > > On Feb 6, 2006, at 8:14 PM, [email protected] wrote: > > > > > > > In a message dated 2/6/2006 8:12:36 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > > [email protected] writes: > > > > awwwww. > > > > > > > > Bless yer ol' heart > > > > Sincerely, > > Rick A. Jorgensen > > 18021-150th Avenue East > > Orting, WA 98360 > > > > American Gramophone & Wireless Co. > > _http://members.aol.com/agw1886/index.html_ > > (http://members.aol.com/agw1886/index.html) > > > > Golden Era Automobile Association > > _http://members.aol.com/agw1888/geaahome.htm_ > > (http://members.aol.com/agw1888/geaahome.htm) > > _______________________________________________ > > Phono-L mailing list > > [email protected] > > > > Phono-L Archive > > http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ > > _______________________________________________ > Phono-L mailing list > [email protected] > > Phono-L Archive > http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ From [email protected] Tue Feb 7 08:55:03 2006 From: [email protected] (bob) Date: Sun Dec 24 13:11:18 2006 Subject: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors References: <[email protected]> <000c01c62b9f$30ee8410$0200a...@office> Message-ID: <09a701c62c07$3e175eb0$6400a...@desktop> Matching old finishes is pretty tricky. I find the best way to do this is to use old veneer that is similar the original used on the piece. I try to save veneer from old pieces that are too far gone to restore. Most old veneer is finished with a stain varnish. It can be sanded off easily. The key is not to remove the filler in the veneer.. I cut the section to be patched with razor blade held at a 45 degree angle. Then I feather sand the edge of the patch at a similar angle. If the veneer is too thick, sand it form the back side with coarse sandpaper. When it fits properly you can glue it in with white glue. You can then use any stain you like to darken the patch to match the piece if necessary. I usually use gel stains that can be wiped on with a rag. After a few minutes you can wipe off the excess. The more you remove the lighter the color will be. When your satisfied with the color you can clear coat the area to achieve a gloss similar to the rest of the piece. The clear coat may darken the color a little so it's best to make some sample pieces with both the stain and clear coast finish on them before you finish the patches on your piece. I think this technique will also work on a complete piece if you can find a piece of old veneer large enough to cover a new piece of wood. RMV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Albertson" <[email protected]> To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 11:30 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors > Ken: > > I see that no one is jumping in here. So I will try to give you some > pointers. > > Each collector has his or her preference as to finishes. Some use > original > shellac (orange or clear). Others like oils, and yet others like lacquer > based products for big jobs such as cabinets or uprights. When it comes > to > these choices, the size of the job matters as does what one is most > comfortable with. The application also matters...ie: spray vs. rubbed on > vs. ragged on. > > So, choosing your refinishing medium is really a personal choice as to > what > your comfortable with and trying to accomplish. > > By the sounds of it, you have original finish machines that need a > replacement board here or there and the question is how to "match" > finishes...new to the old. Well, my experience suggests a great deal of > patience, a practice board, and a variety of lighting conditions. > Patience > is obvious as is a practice board identical to the wood you will be > working > with. Different lighting (natural vs. fluorescent, vs. incandescent) will > cause colors to act differently, so it's important to go slow and check in > different lights at different times using the medium of your choice. But > you need a product to mix with your shellac, minwax oil etc........read > on. > > I have found that the best product for dialing in and matching finishes is > an alcohol based anyline dye specifically made by the Wood Finish Supply > Company. They sell a metalized extract concentrate dye mixed in MEK. The > advantage of these dyes is that they dissolve in any base medium you like > to > work in (shellac, oil, lacquer..etc.) and come in a host of colors for > very > precise color control (one drop at a time). In addition, the company > provides baseline quantity combinations for most wood colors you will be > seeking. I would recommend starting with four colors...black, warm brown, > yellow, and red.....each in 8oz bottles). From there you can nail down > most > all the colors we see in phonos except green oak. > > Used alone, the dye will flash off and evaporate too fast for custom > applications, so you need to use a baseline medium and then add dye drops > to > that for your precision control of color. > > Again, take a spoonful of patience before starting and have fun. > > You can check out Wood Finish Supply Co. at www.woodfinishsupply.com I > would > also suggest calling them. They are very helpful. Again, the product is > "Metalized Extract Concentrate Dye in MEK"....Get the four colors to > start. > > Best > > Mark Albertson > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ken Danckaert" <[email protected]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 3:57 PM > Subject: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors > > >>I can do almost anything with metal but I have a devil of a time with >> the cases. When you have to make a new wood part for a cabinet, it is >> really difficult to color match close to the original. I would really >> like to see suggestions from you all on how you get wood parts to >> match. Maybe someone knows a good source for stains or finishes that >> help you get a match. Is there a magical technique out there? My brute >> strength approaches usually get me close but they are very time >> consuming and chancy. Any suggestions? >> >> Ken Danckaert >> Severna Park, MD >> _______________________________________________ >> Phono-L mailing list >> [email protected] >> >> Phono-L Archive >> http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ > > _______________________________________________ > Phono-L mailing list > [email protected] > > Phono-L Archive > http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.0/248 - Release Date: 2/1/2006 > >
