I wrote and emailed this earlier today, but not to the forum.  Some  
of the questions in my Questionnaire might require raising or  
removing the motor board.  For those who are willing to do this, here  
is a set of instructions that will help to prevent damage caused by  
the crescent shaped auto-stop lever digging into the painted front  
edge and top of the motor board, while removing the motorboard from  
the cabinet.  It was written with the later control levers in mind,  
but much of it will apply to the early type levers as well.

Andy

Caution: Motor board is heavy.  Stand on side of cabinet opposite the  
winding crank side.  Use care to prevent further damage to paint on  
motorboard and damage to top rim of cabinet when removing motor board  
assembly away from cabinet.
1) Remove the reproducer and winding crank.

2) While guiding the top of the horn with one hand (behind the  
knurled collar that retains the reproducer), lift the whole horn/mute  
ball/horn support shaft assembly up and out of the socket in the  
floor of the horn compartment.  It needs to be lifted high enough to  
clear the top of the socket plate.

3) Gently set the end of the ball-stud (at the bottom of the vertical  
horn support shaft) down, outside of the socket hole, gently far  
enough away from the hole to prevent it dropping back in.  The weight  
of the horn and arm may want to push this slightly out toward the  
front of the machine, typically to about the 4 or 5 o'clock position  
around the socket hole.  You may want to place a pad or piece of  
stiff board (such as found on the back of a legal pad) on the floor  
of the horn compartment to prevent scuffs.

4) With the horn lift control-lever angled straight up (all the way  
vertical), slide the crescent auto-stop lever up until it touches the  
underside of the rocking horn/reproducer control handle bracket.   
Because of the off-center weight of the crescent lever itself, it  
should tilt down just slightly and stay up against the rocking  
bracket.  The idea is to get it as far up above the painted motor  
board as you can.

5) Make sure the winding crank has been removed from the motor.  You  
may wish to place a cloth between the motor board top front edge and  
the underside of the crescent lever before proceeding.
Lift the motor board up from the side (opposite the winding crank)  
until the flats in the pivot studs align with the exit paths of the  
support bracket.  It shouldn't tilt more than a few inches before the  
alignment occurs.  The exit position is very specific.  Slightly too  
high or low will prevent the withdrawal of the motor board.

6) Disengage the rear pivot stud just slightly before disengaging the  
front one, by pulling the motor board away from the crank side of the  
cabinet.  At the same time, move the entire motor board slightly  
rearward to disengage the front stud completely and keep the motor  
board clear of the auto-stop lever.

7) Once both studs are disengaged from the cabinet bracket, lift the  
whole motor board up high enough to prevent striking the cabinet rim  
with the bottom of the motor.


Reply via email to