That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications
medium at best.
Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac
which is the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days
for the wax and bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color
and it then thinned to the consistency of water, use a high dollar
professional watercolor brush only for best results. Apply enough coats
of shellac to almost fill the blemish and then use the violin varnish
for the top coat. Use rottenstone and hard felt pad with paraffin oil to
clean up the edges once varnish has dried. Using Behlen Behcol thinner
is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol as a substitute. If
Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from liquor store.
This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy once you
collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products.
https://www.shellac.net/ <-buglac source & Behlen products
--Rich
On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the
info.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Phono-L <phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org> on behalf of Rich via
Phono-L <phono-l@oldcrank.org>
*Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
*To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
*Cc:* Rich
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
--Rich
On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get
most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was
that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but
I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk
that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the
moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of
it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.
Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a
bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
Thanks,
Robert
On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L
<phono-l@oldcrank.org <mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the
finish. I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the
mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold. Do not
use polish. Relubricate moving parts with light oil. Put oil on the
pad to avoid squeal.
Ron
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