Reading this I can see that you are talking about wood finishes.

Ron L

-----Original Message-----
From: Phono-L [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Rich via
Phono-L
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2019 9:20 AM
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Cc: Rich
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!

That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications 
medium at best.

Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac 
which is the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days 
for the wax and bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color 
and it then thinned to the consistency of water, use a high dollar 
professional watercolor brush only for best results. Apply enough coats 
of shellac to almost fill the blemish and then use the violin varnish 
for the top coat. Use rottenstone and hard felt pad with paraffin oil to 
clean up the edges once varnish has dried. Using Behlen Behcol thinner 
is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol as a substitute. If 
Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from liquor store. 
This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy once you 
collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products.
https://www.shellac.net/ <-buglac source & Behlen products

--Rich

On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
> I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the 
> info.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Phono-L <phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org> on behalf of Rich via 
> Phono-L <phono-l@oldcrank.org>
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
> *To:* phono-l@oldcrank.org
> *Cc:* Rich
> *Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
> I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
> 
> The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
> difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
> followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
> 
> The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
> technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
> that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
> type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
> 
> --Rich
> 
> On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
>> Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get 
>> most of it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was 
>> that the arms that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but 
>> I think the hot water I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk 
>> that was making it so stiff. After a thorough drying, I oiled all the 
>> moving parts with 3-in-one, then rubbed an oily paper towel over all of 
>> it to guard against any kind of moisture left over.
>> 
>> Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a 
>> bit involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Robert
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L 
>> <phono-l@oldcrank.org <mailto:phono-l@oldcrank.org>> wrote:
>> 
>>> You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the 
>>> finish.   I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the 
>>> mechanism and spray cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not 
>>> use polish.  Relubricate moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the 
>>> pad to avoid squeal.
>>> Ron
>> 
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