Manuel - That was probably me, as I posted a routine and chemicals required to do this a while back. I've not gotten around to trying it out, so I can't compare
One correction to the text below - I believe that red and orange-colored objects will show as light, not dark. Cheers - george --- Manuel_Galán_Molina <mgalanmol...@hotmail.com> wrote: > Hi list. > Two years ago, i think, somebody put on the list a process to obtain paper > negatives by reversal. I have mailed another process, see below, but i want > to compare the two process. Anybody remembers this, or something like this? > > I put this email in the pinhole list also, sorry for duplication if anybody > is on both list. > > Thanks > > Manuel, Spain > > My process (from http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/faq.html) > > PROCESSING ENLARGING PAPER AS A POSITIVE > ...means you can use the paper in a camera and make one-of-a-kind images... > > ...roughly collected from info seen in various rec.photo postings... > > If you use the paper as a material in the camera then you may wish to > consider > using Panalure for "normal" looking results in terms of tonal reproduction. > This is becasue normal B&W papers are not sensitive to red and thus anything > colored red in a scene will turn out very dark or black. > > You can also make B&W prints directly from slides this way. Place a slide in > the enlarger and project it onto B&W paper. Again, to maintain more natural > looking tones use Panalure. > > The chemicals and processing steps are as follows: > > First Developer 60-90 seconds > Rinse 30 seconds > Bleach R-9 30-60 seconds > Rinse 30 seconds > Clear CB-1 30 seconds > Rinse 30 seconds > Expose to light 40 W bulb for 5-10 seconds at 12 inches > Second Developer30-60 seconds > Fix 30-60 seconds > WashNormal paper washing time > Dry > > First Developer: The original literature referring to this method of making > positive prints from slides is Kodak Publication G-14, "Direct Positive > Photography". You can probably get a copy of it by calling the Kodak Hot > Line > at 800-242-2424. In any case, that booklet specified a high contrast > developer > such as D-88. Dektol or D-72 dilited 1:1 can probably be substituted > successfully for D-88. > > Rinses should be under running water, or at least two changes in the 30 > seconds. > > The bleach is modified Kodak Bleach R-9: > > Water 800 mL > Potassium Dichromate9.5 g > Sodium Bisulfate 66 g > Water to make 1 L > > Clear CB-1: > > Sodium Sulfite 90 g > Water to make 1 L > > Second Developer can be Dektol again. Or if you want a sepia toned print, > skip the light exposure and use Sulfide Redeveloper T-19 (Sodium Sulfide > 20 g with water to make 1 L). > > As with any positive process, the resultant density value is opposite from > ordinarily processed paper: More exposure = lighter print, less exposure > = darker print. ===== Handmade Photographic Images - http://GLSmyth.com DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
