I have an Archos Jukebox Recorder. It's a few years old now, but it meets all the requirements you listed. Here's an ebay auction of the very model I have - search for the item number in the ebay search box: 5809545219.

It's bigger and heavier than today's players - 12 ounces, I think. But it's 20 gigs and just shows up as an external usb hard drive. I've mounted it on linux and windows. Navigation is just navigating a normal filesystem directory structure. You put whatever files you want on it and if they happen to be mp3s it'll play them for you.

I didn't use the stock OS much before upgrading to the rockbox firmware (www.rockbox.org), which I like better. It's not quite as smooth to use as the ipod interface - and I especially wish it had the click wheel - but it's still pretty feature-full and usable for a wisely organized directory structure. The rockbox firmware had some discussion of supporting ogg last I checked (which was a long time ago), but I don't know where it's gotten with that. Looks like rockbox runs on iriver, too, and does ogg.

As for other archos products, they've released an audio/video player and pocket hard drives and newer mp3 players. I don't know if the latest versions do the "just another usb storage device" thing, but I wouldn't be surprised. A quick glance at their site shows some cool-looking smaller and sleeker models available these days. Definitely check them out, I'd say.

Brett
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