Like I said, silly. It didn't occur to me to try a different viewer.
Okular works like a charm.

It still doesn't make sense to me though. I have a 24" monitor, and
full-screen with zoom actual-size or 100% it's big enough to show the
entire page at real size. So why in that mode pg-up/down first scrolls
1/2 a line height before changing pages is beyond me.

(It's not scrolling a 1/2 page--it's scrolling 1/2 line--and the whole
page is still displayed either way--it's just moving the margin or
something.)

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