Theoretically, could one rebuild a Duo Type battery, which normally
uses 10, 1.2 V 4/5A cells, but using Li cells ?
thanks,
Mad Dog
Your original 4/5A cells would have probably been rated for 1500mA/hr (or
1.5 A). Since you didn't give me the power requirement specs for your
machine, I'm going to GUESS that they were wired as two banks of five each,
yeilding 6 Volts at 3 Amps. So that's probably what you're looking for.
I'm providing a list of good Battery Sellers, mostly in the States, and
you'll like the prices. If you're ordering from Canada, as I have, you'll
not like the combined hit of duty (GST), shipping, and exchange. It pretty
much doubles the cost, sometimes more. The good news is that the batteries
are almost certainly fresher than any battery you'd find on a shelf
somewhere.
You may have difficulty tracking down 4/5 format Lithium cells, but they
should be out there. Make sure of the size: use calipers to measure your
cells before ordering. Most of these guys in the list provide cell
dimensions (bless em) so you shouldn't have any problem. Obviously, the
higher Amp/Hour rating you get in any given format, the better. There is NO
danger of harming your PB with higher-rated batteries, and every extra
minute of useful power counts, no? Don't forget to specify TABBED cells, or
you'll have a heck of a time soldering them together.
Once you are grasping your new cells in your sweaty palms, carefully cut the
case open. I scored slowly and repeatedly along the seam line around the
label, until I cut through, using an Exacto knife and no 11 blade. Pry the
old ones out, number them with a marker, and solder together your new cells
in exactly the same configuration (use the old pack as your reference). When
you have the clusters ready, clip off the two thermal cutoff devices
nestled between the cells in the original pack, and solder them into their
appropriate locations in your new pack. You may have to tape them on. Use
Scotch tape, not electrical vinyl tape, as it's too thick, and things are a
tight fit.
When it's all together,solder the common leads and power leads (three
stranded wires in all, color-coded) to the terminals (or to the original
wires, if you can't reach the terminals with your iron), and carefully jam
the cells back in. This will take a little delicate brute force!
The big danger here, is making a poor soldering joint with the tabs, which
may look fine, but not pass the current. Bend them so they are in tension
against each other, and in contact along their entire surface, then apply
the iron to one face, and the solder to the joint, until the solder flows
between the tabs. Remove the iron but don't let anything budge, even a
little, for a few seconds. then you should be able to fold the tab flat
against the end of the cell.
When I had mine back in, I considered potting the cells. To do this, I'd
fill the cavities with silicone sealant, piling it up higher than the top
of the case. After it sets, I can then carve it off very cleanly, using a
large sharp kitchen knife. If I chose grey sealant, it would look pretty
slick, and it's easier than trying to glue the original polyethylene panel
back on. But I chose to leave them exposed, because no one sees them anyway
inside the Powerbook, because it's easier to access them if I have any
trouble with them later, and because I'm lazy. : )
That's probably more instruction than you'll ever need!
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