http://www.atimes.com/atimes/Southeast_Asia/GL22Ae01.html


Christmas in Bali not so jolly
By Gary LaMoshi 


DENPASAR, Bali - Following a stellar 2004-05 holiday season that began a 
record-shattering rebound from the October 2002 terrorist bombings, Bali's 
tourism industry is having a humbug Christmas this year. 

The October 1 suicide attacks on popular restaurants in Jimbaran and Kuta have 
plunged Bali's US$3 billion tourism industry, providing 60% of family incomes 
on this island of nearly a million people, into depression. 

The latest bombings killed fewer than two dozen innocents, compared with more 
than 200 in 2002, but that hasn't stopped the slide. "The body count is 
irrelevant," said Jeremy Allan, author of Bali Blues (Media Makara), a new book 
about the 2002 bombings with a postscript on the 2005 attacks. 

"The images on television screens were similar, though this time the iconic 
image was a face cut to ribbons by shrapnel, not a body livid with third degree 
burns. It was enough to make anyone change their travel plans." 

Bali Hotels Association (BHA) chairman Michael Burchett reports, "Bookings for 
the holiday season are just below last year's levels, but ahead of 2002." 
Travelers seem to be delaying decisions, "so we are expecting a lot of late 
pick up." said Burchett, also general manager of the Conrad Bali. He added that 
a lack of flights also hurts. 

"The airlines do not seem to have the same confidence that we do in Bali, and 
they have not increased capacity as they have done in past years during this 
busy period. It appears the demand is there." 

But windshield surveys of prime tourist areas Sanur, Kuta and Nusa Dua indicate 
the holiday statistics, barring drastic late pick up, will be as grim as the 
rainy season skies. Citing reports from colleagues around the island, a veteran 
star hotel general manager reports room occupancy is running below 40%, 
compared to virtually full houses a year ago. 

That figure is consistent with overseas arrivals for November, down 43% 
year-on-year. (December statistics won't be available until next month.) Worse, 
the arrivals gap grew from 37% in October, indicating that the longer people 
thought about the suicide attacks, the fewer chose Bali. 

Air Paradise lost
As after the 2002 bombing, Indonesian visitors are softening the blow. But 
arrivals from Bali's top three overseas markets - Japan, Australia and Taiwan - 
accounting for more than half of 2005 arrivals before the bombings, fell nearly 
60% from November last year. Unofficial flag carrier Air Paradise, which lifted 
spirits as well as tens of thousands of Australians on package holidays after 
the 2002 bombs, shut down last month. 

Visitor numbers from the Association of Southeast Asian Nations are less scary, 
off a shade below 40% from last year. Cheap airfares help, especially for 
Malaysia where Malaysia Air and Air Asia go head-to-head. But the comments of 
one holidaymaker from Singapore may indicate a trend. 

"I was in London during the bombings there, and you can't let those things 
scare you," Rehana Sarwar said, lounging in the nearly empty, football 
pitch-sized pool at the Hard Rock Hotel with her five-year-old son. "I've 
always dreamed of coming to Bali." So she came in October, terrorists be 
darned, she said, adding, "I couldn't get a booking to Phuket [in Thailand]." 
Just as Bali benefited from the December 2004 tsunami that hit rival resorts in 
the Indian Ocean, those destinations stand to gain now from Bali's woes. 

Bali's stunning recovery in just over two years following the 2002 bombings 
defied experts who predicted the island would need 10 years or more. Optimists, 
such as authoritative website Balidiscovery.com, point out that this November's 
foreign arrivals of 62,705 are nearly double the 31,497 of November 2002. 

"The impact of the incident on October 1 has not been at the same level as 
2002," BHA's Burchett said, "and recovery is expected to be much quicker. We 
believe, as most other countries that have experienced the same challenges, 
that the world is a very different place, and that the traveling public will 
not be intimidated by the criminals who act in this way." 

Target market?
One terrorist incident meant Bali had fallen victim to an unfortunate global 
trend, but a second set of attacks suggest that Bali is a preferred target. 
Burchett vehemently rejects that argument: "We feel that at times Bali is 
unfairly singled out by the press, and given overexposure in exaggerated 
reports." 

But Haji Bambang, the head of Kuta's minority Muslim community recognized 
worldwide for his heroism rescuing victims of 2002 blasts, observes, "Bali is a 
perfect place for [Islamic terrorists] to send their message." Even a bomb in 
Jakarta doesn't get nearly the global attention of a blast among Bali's 
polyglot of international tourists. 

Furthermore, terrorists (and many Indonesians) commonly believe foreigners and 
Bali's Hindu majority suffer most from attacks and their aftermath, forgetting 
Bali's many Muslims, such as Haji Bambang, working in tourism. 

Recognizing their situation requires concerted action, Bali's tourism 
stakeholders held a two-day meeting earlier this month to revamp the Bali 
Tourism Board, the industry's public-private umbrella organization. Among other 
things, delegates voted for research into the island's unique selling 
proposition. But market repositioning is unlikely to change terrorists' 
perceptions. 

When author Allan, a longtime Jakarta resident, moved to Bali to begin work on 
Bali Blues in November 2002, he assured his mother back in Canada that "Bali is 
now the safest island on earth". After this year's attacks, Allan told his 
mother Bali was still safe but admits, "In 2003 my friends and I would say, 
'One more bomb and we are out of here.' Now, we say, 'How long till the next 
one'?" 

For Bali to recover, Burchett said, "People need to have confidence in us to 
provide the safest environment possible in today's world, and to visit Bali to 
experience the special uniqueness of this culturally peaceful Island of the 
gods." 

But details of the 2005 attacks make them particularly frightening. The 2002 
bombings were a relatively complex and expensive operation. Police can hope to 
thwart such plots. Suicide bombings are far easier to organize, and, as with 
the experience of Israel - the most security-conscious nation on earth - 
illustrates, far more difficult to prevent. Two of the October 1 targets were 
beachfront cafes, highlighting the difficulty of safeguarding public beaches 
and the wider issue of balancing security with a holiday atmosphere. 

"The last attack was very bad for families," said a hotel manager (who asked 
for his name and employer to be withheld). "The first attack was at a 
nightclub; you could not go to nightclubs. The last one was restaurants, and 
everybody eats." The manager said some people have concluded "there is no 
really safe place in Bali". 

Australian 30-something Maha Noore, a Bali regular since the 1990s, said she'll 
come back. "But it won't be the high life anymore. No more visits to La 
Lucciola or Ku De Ta," - top restaurants in trendy Seminyak - "too conspicuous 
as targets." She also reports a friend recently visited Bali's Ritz-Carlton, 
barely leaving the hotel grounds. "Tragic," Noore said. "While he missed out on 
most of the culture" - which is Bali's unique selling proposition - "more 
importantly, few of his Australian dollars filtered through to local small 
businesses." 

MICE flee
One owner of a corporate events organizer half jokingly welcomed staff to a 
year-end dinner as veterans of "our final program in Bali". The MICE (meetings, 
incentives, conventions and exhibitions) business had returned to Bali along 
with the tourists by mid-2005, but now corporate travel planners simply can't 
take the risk - or get insurance against it - to hold events in Bali, ripping a 
big slice out of top hotels' income. 

As Asia regional manager of consumer banking for a leading financial 
multinational, Chin Shih-tang touted Bali for a global executive shindig in 
2001. He believes resorts in Nusa Dua, the five-star hotel preserve at the 
southern tip of the island, would still be safe for an event, but Chin cites 
other concerns, some not on his checklist five years ago. 

"First, arrivals at the airport. Is there a secure, private airport for the big 
shots' corporate jet to arrive? Apart from the bigs, even though the travel 
agents would spread them out, there would be a number of flights with several 
people from the company on each one. The other danger area would be 
transportation to and from the resort site. Again, a fairly large number of 
individuals on chartered buses, which would be quite vulnerable to car bombs or 
accidentally being in the wrong place at the wrong time." 

With the holiday tourists coming, albeit in reduced numbers, Bali's police are 
on high alert, well aware that Indonesian radicals have struck other islands 
during previous Christmas seasons. Haji Bambang believes, "One more attack and 
Bali is dead." But the hotel manager is more sanguine: "When we pass Christmas 
and New Year without more incidents, maybe we will get more confident. Maybe 
then we can see the light at the end of the tunnel." 

Gary LaMoshi has worked as a broadcast producer and print writer and editor in 
the US and Asia. Longtime editor of investor rights advocate eRaider.com, he's 
also a contributor to Slate and Salon.com. 

(Copyright 2005 Asia Times Online Ltd. All rights reserved. Please contact us 
for information on sales, syndication and republishing.) 


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