>> Hi Andy, as one who has not gone completely digital.. >> are you selling inkjet prints, if so what is the > > You don't have to go completely digital to do inkjet prints. > I for one shoot on traditional film, then scan using an > Imacon and output on an Epson 7600. > > I have an exhibit running the month of March, and all prints > in the show were done on the Epson 7600. Results are > stupendous, and clients are very happy. > My set up is epson 1160, epson inks and epson archival matte paper. The paper stock is (according to my supplier in Toulouse) the only stock which Epson guarantee for "lifetme" (what ever that means).
>> equipment, profile etc. and are you happy that they >> will last? I just need that last push to go (I was >> going to say over the top, but maybe that isn't the >> best phrase tonight)fully digi and would apreciate >> some info. i debated long and hard the need for a printer profile for my set up. I felt that I could simply make some tweaks here and make the perfect print using the generic printer profiles supplied by epson. I had a long chat with Neil Barstow about this and his point was that no 2 printers are alike so this makes profiling your printer imperative. I took the leap, profiled my machine and was astounded by the results. The guy who framed my show (and he is the framer for the Assoc of Photogs in London - so he has an eye for a good print) said "I love your iris prints". when I told him that the pics were done on an ink jet printer he was stunned - "stone me". I am not shooting digitally yet. shooting fuji provia 100f (is there another film stock?) and then scanning on Nikon 4000 using vuescan (amazing - just ask William C about this programme). > > Go for it - you'll never look back. Although, do be aware of > the perils of moving to a digital-based system. It's not as > simple as it might seem - getting phenomenal quality prints > does take a lot of knowledge, and understanding of colour, > the use of curves, black and white points, etc. etc. This is of course crucial. Takes a while to be able to "see" the problems in each pic, but it is worth the effort. With pics where the tweaking required is not obvious, I have found one handy trick is to hit "auto levels" as soon as I open the pic in PS. This tells me where the image wants to go (contrast/colour balance/black levels etc) and helps me decide what was right about the original in the first place. I then 'Undo" "auto levels" to get back to the original and tweak accordingly in curves/levels etc. Andy -- Andy Johnstone Photography Member of the Association of Photographers (UK) =============================================================== GO TO http://www.prodig.org for ~ GUIDELINES ~ un/SUBSCRIBING ~ ITEMS for SALE
