http://www.arabnews.com/?page=9&section=0&article=60597&d=18&m=3&y=2005
Friday, 18, March, 2005 (07, Safar, 1426)


You Cannot Leave Because You Never Arrived'
Lubna Hussain, [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 
I flew into another Gulf country recently and had the shock of my life. It was 
almost as if all the staff had been replaced by a bunch of courteous capable 
androids programmed to smile and process matters quickly and efficiently. A 
sort of airport inspired version of the Stepford Wives. I was stunned at just 
how smoothly things were run and what a positive image such proficiency created 
of the country. After all, it is a well-known fact substantiated by several 
psychological studies, that first impressions are extremely important. 
Regardless of subsequent experiences those first 15 to 30 seconds of an initial 
encounter with someone or something can form very lasting ideas independent of 
all rationalization. My holiday destination seemed to have largely comprehended 
this innate human trait and had capitalized upon it to great effect.

There were several lines for passport control and I stood undecided for a while 
as to where I should join the queue. A lady appeared and in a most unobtrusive 
and quietly unassuming manner gently guided me to where I should be, beaming 
with a genuine desire to help. The gentleman at the desk expressed his 
gratitude on behalf of his country that I was making this trip and slipped in 
the question as to how long I was staying in a style more akin to casual 
inquiry than Gestapo interrogation. "Have a pleasant trip!" he gestured, 
followed by a request that I would most definitely avail myself of in the 
future, "Please do come again."

I felt warm, appreciated and quite honestly overwhelmed by this level of 
welcome. I glanced around wondering if I were the only passenger receiving such 
VIP treatment, but was rather amazed to see the same scenario replicated at 
every counter. All of humanity stood together in lines irrespective of 
profession or class or creed and everyone was treated with the same level of 
deference that I had received. Much to my astonishment, one of the Arabs 
manning the adjacent booth spoke to a worker in his native language, sharing a 
joke that made the recipient grin broadly showing off all his pearly whites. To 
me, this was surreal. Utopia. "If this is what it is like at the airport, if 
going through customs and immigration is in itself such a gratifying and 
agreeable experience," I reasoned to myself, "then I would love to come back."

Upon my return to Riyadh airport I experienced what can only be aptly described 
as a culture shock. It is highly peculiar as to how our species can so easily 
and effortlessly adapt to circumstances superior to those that we are used to 
regularly experiencing without a trace of remorse or remembrance for those that 
preceded them.

Ushered off the plane with much pomp and ceremony, the bona fide VIPs made 
their way to a different section of the airport where presumably they were 
treated with a brand of selective respect and reverence reserved for a chosen 
few. The fact that I had been looked upon as a celebrity at another airport a 
short while ago didn't qualify me for such a privilege.

When it was our turn to be let out there was not a smile to be seen anywhere as 
we entered the twilight zone. It was as if the whole atmosphere had been 
sullied by memories of one airport horror story or another and these had united 
to form the basis of such collective depression. The crowd shuffled out in 
single file while abayas and headscarves were hastily rearranged.

One of my friends has described this phenomenon as "feeling guilty for fear of 
a crime you could have committed, or at least you may well be accused of". It 
is almost as if you have this dreadful apprehension of what could happen 
whether it actually will or not being an entirely different story. The line up 
is a scene reminiscent of the usual suspects. People of Asian origin can expect 
a much lengthier wait than their fair-skinned counterparts. Unwritten rules are 
implicitly understood by all. The mood is always somber in case you are singled 
out from the crowd with a grin on your face and stand accused of importing some 
contraband joy into the country.

And then there are the actual queues themselves that take on a life of their 
own. You might have waited for ages in a particular row when suddenly, just as 
your turn approaches, the line mysteriously disappears. The man at the booth 
vanishes into thin air, the counter is closed and all those who were behind you 
have scuttled off to join another one and you are invariably last again. It 
appears that there is an incentive system pertaining to one cup of tea for 
every 10 passports stamped.

In light of what I have just narrated, would it be too much to ask for our 
authorities to ascribe more importance to creating positive lasting and more 
correct perceptions of our great country through what certainly is the first 
point of call for almost all of our visitors and guests? Instead of the often 
impolite and unfriendly treatment meted out to foreigners, can't we reflect the 
traditional values of our wonderful religion pertaining to hospitality and 
generosity of spirit? Many people are often stumped by simple questions at 
immigration because of their inability to communicate in Arabic. In a country 
that entertains a huge expatriate work force, should it not be a minimal 
requirement to at the very least have officers who are conversant in English? 
Is it beyond possibility to train airport staff to be courteous, pleasant and 
efficient? If it can be done so effectively by our neighbors then why not by 
us? There really should be some evaluation procedure in place to ensure that 
passengers are treated equitably and reasonably in spite of who they are and 
what they do. Officials need to be monitored for displaying such qualities and 
acknowledged, rewarded and promoted accordingly. And realistically, is it that 
hard to smile?

Being a fastidious and paranoid traveler, one of my relatives proceeded to 
complete his immigration formalities two hours ahead of his departure time and 
was rather perplexed as to why the officer went AWOL while still clutching his 
passport. Having waited for an interminable 60 minutes he began to panic and 
drew the attention of an officer in an adjacent booth. He too disappeared for 
half an hour, but returned thereafter with no response. Agitated by this lack 
of concern, my relative asked where his passport was. "Oh! In there. That 
room," he divulged pointing his finger at an office.

"Well, may I have it back?" he requested, acutely aware of the fact that he 
would miss his flight.
"No," was the simple response.

"Excuse me," he retorted entirely exacerbated by this charade, "but my flight 
takes off in 30 minutes and I still need to proceed through the security check."

"OK. Just one minute. You wait!" he gruffly commanded as the traveler attempted 
to follow him in. Both officers reemerged from behind an enclosed area without 
any passport.

"I want my passport!" was the plea chanted with ever-growing impatience.

"Your passport?" inquired the first official.

By now the aggrieved gentleman was exasperated and demanded to see the 
supervisor. When this chap emerged carrying the document my relative felt a 
great sense of relief.

"Thank you very much!" he remarked with heartfelt gratitude.

"I am sorry," said the bureaucrat shaking his head, "but you can't leave here."

"What!" he challenged by now totally distraught.

"Yes sir. You cannot leave because, according to our system, you never arrived!"
* * *
(Lubna Hussain is a Saudi writer. She is based in Riyadh.)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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