http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/30/world/asia/30iht-indo.html?_r=1&ref=global-home

Indonesians Waiting Out Another Disaster
 
Ulet Ifansasti/Getty Images
A pyroclastic flow of ash and rock flowed down the face of Mount Merapi on 
Friday. 

By WILL CARLESS and AUBREY BELFORD
Published: October 29, 2010
 
UMBULHARJO EVACUATION CAMP, INDONESIA - Karjono knows the Umbulharjo evacuation 
camp well. It was here, four years ago, while his family was seeking shelter 
from Mount Merapi's last spate of eruptions, that his first daughter was born 
into the chilly mountain air. 

Related
  a.. Elements Slow Aid in Indonesia, and New Eruption Raises Fears (October 
29, 2010) 
Mr. Karjono, a hollow-faced 34-year-old farmer from the tiny village of 
Pangurejo, two kilometers, or a little over a mile, from Merapi's fiery crater, 
named his daughter Wahyu Lavania - "A Revelation from the Lava." 

On Thursday night, Lavania huddled against her father and tried to sleep as the 
evacuation camp hummed around her. The family was among the victims of twin 
natural disasters that caused havoc in separate parts of the Indonesian 
archipelago this week. 

At Merapi, where at least 35 people were killed by eruptions of hot gas and 
debris this week, sporadic eruptions continued on Friday, forcing nearly 50,000 
people to stay in temporary camps while seismologists worked to see whether the 
mountain was set for further, more damaging activity. 

At the same time, about 1,200 kilometers to the west, officials said that the 
death toll had climbed to 408 and that 303 were missing from a powerful 
earthquake and tsunami that struck the Mentawai Islands on Monday night. 

An influx of aid, helped by military ships and helicopters, made it to the 
islands, which lie off the west coast of Sumatra, but rough seas and 
unpredictable weather meant that many victims were still without assistance 
four days after the disaster, said Harmensyah, the head of the West Java 
provincial Disaster Management Agency. 

"We've been able to get aid out there, but the problem is then channeling it to 
the affected areas," he said. "The weather's nasty today, so we're relying on 
helicopters to get help out there." 

At the Umbulharjo camp, five kilometers from the volcano's edge, the residents 
of four close-knit villages waited out the emergency, casting a wary eye up the 
mountain to the homes and fertile fields where they draw their living. Misram, 
a villager from Pangurejo, said he and his neighbors had been visiting the 
village each morning to check on their animals and feed them. But Mr. Misram, 
50, said many residents were finding their stores of feed and the rest of their 
possessions covered in a thick sheet of poisonous volcanic dust. 

"We can't even use the water to clean the food because it is also full of dust, 
Mr. Misram said. 

By Thursday evening, the camp had taken on the atmosphere of a somber carnival 
as evacuees brooded on their future and lost friends, but sought refuge in the 
laughter of their children and the spirit of camaraderie fostered by their 
escape. 

A huge group of children sang along to a cartoon projected on a screen in a 
courtyard. Men, many of them wearing black felt taqiyahs, or prayer caps, 
gathered in groups to smoke cigarettes, sip hot, sweet tea and discuss plans to 
save their animals while women tended to children or tried to sleep, huddled 
together against the cold night on woven reed mats. 

In the Umbulharjo camp's shabby office, the village secretary and de facto 
leader of the camp, Endri, hid his bloodshot eyes behind gray-tinted 
sunglasses. Surveying a list of the dead, Mr. Endri reflected on the death of 
Mbah Maridjan, the revered spiritual leader and appointed "guardian" of Mount 
Merapi, who was found half-buried buried in volcanic ash on Wednesday. 

"Maybe people will become more realistic about these things now," Mr. Endri 
said. "Maybe they will trust the government warnings more." 

Mr. Maridjan, who had lived on the slopes of Merapi for 33 years, was 
considered a spiritual guide for local villagers. When he refused to leave the 
mountain despite the evacuation order, some villagers believed that he knew 
they would be safe and also refused to leave, said villagers now in the 
evacuation camp. 

But evacuees interviewed here also played down Mr. Maridjan's significance as a 
reference point in matters of safety. 

"No, we listened to the government, not to Maridjan," said Marjo Mirono, a 
59-year-old resident of the village of Balong, 3 kilometers from the crater. "I 
came here one day before the first eruption, and so did many people. They did 
not wait until the mountain erupted." 

On the southern slope of Merapi on Friday, villagers took regular breaks from 
their daily routine and shaded their eyes against the sun to look north for the 
next appearance of "wedhus gembel" - the woolly haired goat - the name people 
here have given to the dark-gray eruptions that have been rising into the sky 
at regular intervals since Monday evening. 

"God's will - and we must accept it," said Ngatinah, a 42-year-old resident of 
the village of Ngrangkah, where eight people died in the Monday eruption. "If I 
moved to the city, I could be hit by a car or a bus tomorrow. If Allah wants to 
take me, he will take me." 

Aubrey Belford reported from Jakarta. 


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