Toyota celica about or pre 1995.
The rubbers on the joins have to be perfect and the roof level with the screen and rear sourround. Adjusting the wheel as you drive can change the noise level. Gary _____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Hamish Freeman Sent: 17 May 2009 21:05 To: [email protected] Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: H4 Clear lights & wind noise? Lights - As originally supplied, definitely Toyota, possibly Corolla c.1992. This set-up would not pass the SVA at most test stations as the side lights in the headlamps were not visible over a wide enough angle. As a result, the latter H4s were fitted with Mazda MX3 side lights, clear class and coloured indicator section in one housing. I replaced one of mine last year for the MOT and they now retail at c. £150 so change only if you are feeling rich - which apparently you are not! Wind noise and road noise - it is a long story but possible. Our car is generally quiet enough to have a conversation at 70 miles/hour so that as someone who is deaf I can hear the other person at normal voice level. For me background noise is what gives me most grief when trying to listen to people so I do work at getting things quiet. Our H4 is quieter than a lot of saloon cars in which I have travelled. I do have to work at it regularly as home-made door and window sealing tends to wear and need regular replacement. Wind noise: First check that all of the seals are intact as per the original design then make the windows fit properly all round by careful adjustment of the stops on the window travel. You may find that the two U section strips cut from window raising runners that carry the limit screws have came off as they are Sikaflexed onto the window then crimped. They come off regularly as it is difficult to stick them to the glass - On the original car a piece of rubber was stretched either side of the window, the U shaped piece put in position and the rubber released, a common assembly practice with Ford cars. Fit a top seal across the targa such that it butts tightly against the A-post seal and the rear screen housing. The window top clip on your car is different from mine so I do not know if you can adjust its angle to pull the window in as it closes - proceed with caution. I also extended the seal around the base of the rear screen housing so that it actually seals - superglued a section of seat rubber strapping then cut it to shape. Road noise: Fit noise deadening material under the carpets possibly adding another layer of carpet although yours are colour coordinated and bound if I remember the article in What Kit Car. Ensure that the long side cavities under the bonnet are sealed effectively. Ensure that the front bulkhead is sealed all round and particularly at floor level in the car and also the McPherson strut cavities to the fibreglass although this is mostly to keep out water. Remove the tub and fit at least two layers of sound deadening felt across the bulkhead and seal to the sides. I lined the cavity where the rear screen suspension strut are housed and sealed them in and bitumen painted the covering for weather proofing. In the boot there are two air vents in the side pockets that allow through-air to pass out of the car - these can be sealed to reduce road noise but air throughput is reduced. The boot I lined with carpet underlay to reduce noise. I also added a thick foam strip to seal round the boot lid up to the lights. Road noise, particularly tyre noise: Some people use stonechip paint under the wings but as the main wing area is adjacent to the engine compartment this to me is a waste of money. The rear wing also encompasses the exhaust and the spare tyre and is not sealed at the side so it is difficult to reduce noise in this area - concentrate inside the boot instead. I did toy with the idea of using underwing liners as on Tin-tops but considered the extra weigh too much. Some tyres are quieter than others, due to their design, particularly in the wet Exhaust noise: If an RS1800 exhaust system is used, this is remarkably quiet and unrestrictive, even for a 2 litre Zetec. The good new is that they are available from motor factors such as Partco for an acceptable price, possible half that of the Ford units but with the same noise reduction. Maybe the life is shorter? After ten years on the road I am on my third system but then I live by the sea and anything steel outside in this area just rots as you look at it. The catalyst bit at the front seems to last well and has not been replaced as yet. Hope this helps even if it is a lot of work, depending upon from where you start. Hamish ----- Original Message ----- From: robert <mailto:[email protected]> greig To: quantumown...@googlegroupscom <mailto:[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 3:51 PM Subject: [Quantum Owners] H4 Clear lights & wind noise? Hello Everyone. Two questions for you. What are the front bumper indicator lights from? I would like to change mine to clear ones. I might be asking to much, but how do you quiet down all the road noise when driving with the roof and targa up? Pleas don't say keep the roof down :-) Many thanks Robert Greig. _____ Internal Virus Database is out of date. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.23/1951 - Release Date: 13/02/2009 06:51 No virus found in this incoming message. 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