Can you remember what age and model of Ford the solenoids came from.
Looking at the Ford wiring diagrams for the Fiesta they changed from
negative pulse (as yours is wired) to postive pulse in 1994.
The later solenoids do have internal diodes.
Jim
On 16/06/2010 10:27, Susan and Martin Scott wrote:
They're both moving full travel - there is a little movement on each
linkage when in both shut or closed positions. Earth could be the key
(though why the same flow irrespective of which side is disconnected?)
May be difficult to remove the earth in isolation, as I'm sure I put
earth wire right through the loom rather than to earthing points.
Martin
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Hearne" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Battery Drain - The mystery
As a test try disconnecting the ground connection from one of the
solenoids, the alarm is working on negative pulse so it doesn't need the
ground connection.
Only the central locking from one side to the other needs that.
I've an idea that some of the Ford central locking solenoids had
internal circuitry.
I can't remember if i asked, the solenoid definatly is moving it's full
travel isn't it ?
Can you remove the linkage and try ?
Jim
On 16/06/2010 09:57, Susan and Martin Scott wrote:
I've only a 45Ah battery, but want to minimise the current draw if I
can anyway.
Measurement it at the battery. With alarm not set there is no current
draw. The alarm connects directly to the solenoids, 4 wires to the
solenoids, and the alarm sends a pulse according to the instructions.
Martin
----- Original Message ----- From: "taximark" <[email protected]>
To: "Quantum Owners Group" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 2:00 AM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Battery Drain - The mystery
hi,
0.07 amps is actually a minute drain from a car battery. Assuming
that your battery is a 70 amp hour battery ( a reasonable average for
a small to medium petrol engined car ) and is in good condition it
would in theory take 1000 hours to drain the battery. Even assuming
that the discharge curve on the battery renders it unusable for
starting after just 50% of this time (really unlikely) that is still
500 hours or almost 21 days before you would be unable to start the
car. Is there a separate control unit for the door solenoids or do you
have the alarm connected directly to the solenoids? How many wires go
to the door solenoids?
The lack of current when both solenoids are disconnected is not a
surprise as both connections are open circuit (very high resistance ).
It may be that your alarm or solenoid design is such that a
maintenance current is supplied to the solenoid so that it holds in
the locked position. This current would probably show a significant
increase in the event you applied a manual unlocking force to the
solenoid arm whilst the alarm was armed as the solenoid would draw
more current as it tried to remain in the locked position. If you try
this use extreme caution as you may be able to apply enough force to
damage the solenoid mechanism.
If there are more than two wires (usually 4 or 5) then the solenoid
probably contains position sensors or switches to indicate either a
locked or open condition. The circuitry for this would show a current
flow although 70 mA seems a little high for this.
How and where are you taking the current reading from?
I had a problem with the battery in my taxi recently, it turned out
that one of the diode pairs had failed in the (3 week old) alternator
allowing the alternator to discharge the battery when the engine
wasn't running. All the usual tests showed the alternator to be
working correctly, it was only when I took the alternator to a
specialist with an oscilliscope that the fault was discovered. The
easy way to test for this fault is to disconnect the positive lead
from the alternator, then connect the negative wire from your
multimeter to the connection on the alternator and the positive
multimeter wire to the cable you took off the alternator. With the
battery reconnected there should be no current flow. If there is a
current flow then your battery is discharging through the alternator.
Be aware if you try this you MUST ensure the wire you disconnect from
the alternator must NOT under any circumstances be allowed to short to
any metal part with the battery connected. If it does there is a very
real risk of fire.
Mark
On 15 June, 23:34, "Susan and Martin Scott"
<[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks for the advice...... The latest instalment.
Current flow of 0.07A with alarm armed (door solenoids lock)
If wiring for door locks is removed from alarm, and then alarm is
armed there is no current flow.
If wiring for LH door is unplugged, RH door is locked (as expected)
when alarm is armed, and current flow is 0.07A.
From this I thought the RH door solenoid was suspect...... However if
I reconnect the LH solenoid, and disconnect the RH door solenoid,
similarly there is 0.07A flow when the alarm is armed.
Mystery to me???? Ideas anyone.
Martin
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