Quote from http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/development_history_of_the_K.htm

An interesting development was the new MLS gasket - seen here, pictured to the right. The new gasket set consists of a steel gasket consisting of 5 layers. In the centre is a steel shim with swaged on fire rings - which appears to be very similar to the original gasket designs. This, like the original gasket is encased by two steel layers - rather like a sandwich. However, in contrast to the older gasket design, rather than using bonded-on 'elastomeric' butyl rings to contain the coolant jacket and oil drain spaces, the gasket has an additional two steel layers on either side of the gasket with swaged / raised areas to provide the coolant/oil void sealing (the gloss-black layer just visible in the image opposite). These layers are there to help prevent any coolant leakage failures - which, on the older gasket design, was frequently due to peel-away of the butyl rings.

Q less
Gary

On 10/01/2012 00:15, Dave the Subbie wrote:
Sounds like my sort of money - i.e. as little as possible...!

What always concerned me was how to set up the jetting without a
rolling road? How did you overcome that?

I did once hole a piston on a bike that was running weak, so I'm a bit
nervous.

Although, given the chequered history of this particular engine, I'm
not sure how much I trust the jetting in the current Weber anyway?

Head gasket looks pricey at present, Either Felpro at £40-ish or
Cometic at £90-ish. Standard one is apparently 82.8mm bore, which
would protrude 0.1mm into my 83mm bores. Wondering if I would get away
with it?? Felpro bores are 86.7 mm, which worries me with regard to
the amount of material left between the bores, and Cometic look like
the K-Series gaskets that caused so many problems for MG Rover. So the
standard one might be the least risk. (The piston stroke stops 2mm
short of the top of the block).

I could have measured the one that came out, but I'm not home again
until the weekend. Again, any experience/thoughts would be
interesting.

Dave.





On Jan 9, 11:06 pm, "jon jackson"<[email protected]>  wrote:
Hi Dave I cobbled up a set of Kwaka XR6 carbs (Keihlin) on my Dolly sprint
and got them to perform as well as the Dellorto 45's that it had been on, so
I used them on my Robin Hood pinto boat anchor engine and they were fine and
I sold the car with them on.
I made my own manifold in alloy and got a local welder to weld it for 60.
I would get a set of small drills and gradually open up the jets till they
suit, I was lucky and found that 1.8 mm was perfect and bought them off the
bay for a fiver and the carbs I bought several years ago before they became
famous on car engines so only paid 12 for four 38 mm as new carbs.
I have no idea why people struggle and spend fortunes tuning Webers when
these carbs are  so good and simple, one word of caution though Webers and
Dellortos like up to 3.5 psi fuel pressure and bike carbs much less and
about the same as SU's at no more than 1.5 psi or they will flood.So do use
a pressure regulator.
Good luck.
Jon 2+2 RST (asleep for the winter)







----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave the Subbie"<[email protected]>
To: "Quantum Owners Group"<[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 8:12 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: My Mystery CVH

Well, they reckon it's one of their Stage 3 engines. Certainly, a
search on Google throws up plenty of forums with people complaining
about them. We'll see...

Just down the road from me are Bogg Brothers, who are well known for
bike carb conversions. The car came with a set of R6 carburettors, but
no manifold. I'm idly wondering whether it might be worth looking into
how much would be involved in fitting them. Any comments?

Dave.

On Jan 8, 9:48 am, "Tom Walker (Blackberry)"<[email protected]>
wrote:
I'll second that. They worked on my zvh and made a real hash of it. I
could not recommend them less.
---------Blackberry-----------
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Wastell<[email protected]>
Sender: [email protected]
Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 13:49:41
To: [email protected]<[email protected]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] My Mystery CVH
It sounds like it could be a specialised engineering engine. Quantum used
them as a supplier for a while. I had one from them as well as the worst
customer service I've ever had from a company.
The engine needed a rebuild after 30k miles!
Matthew
On 7 Jan 2012, at 12:30, "Susan and Martin Scott"
<[email protected]>  wrote:
Dave,
I have a Ford Technical Data book which may give some answers if you can
tell me the engine number. According to the book, for CVH is should be
either on one of 2 flat areas on the top of the block on the exhaust
side either near the front or back, or stamped into the front of the
block near where the alternator tensioner bracket fits.
Martin
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave the Subbie"
<[email protected]>
To: "Quantum Owners Group"<[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 12:36 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] My Mystery CVH
Morning All,
Just taken the head off the CVH from my latest acquisition and the
mystery deepens. As you will recall, the previous owner thought it was
a 2.0 and knew it had some fancy bits fitted, but wasn't sure of the
details. Well, I had to have a look didn't I...?
Bore is 83mm, Stroke is 88mm, which, I believe, is the same as the
1905cc American engine. However, it has the 81SM6090 Head (with the
Cross-Hatching that is supposedly so desirable), and the block seems
to be the 1.6 height, not the 1.8, as the 1.6 cam belt cover fits,
which it doesn't on the Sierra block. "E8EE", "AA" and "9E25" are cast
into the block.
Pistons are 'Hemi' type, with large cutouts cast in them for valves
"3019P", "9-6" and "0.75mm" marked in the crowns. The head appears to
have 43mm inlet valves fitted. Haven't taken the valves out, so can't
accurately measure them, but they aren't 42 (standard) or 45mm. Might
be 42.6 or might be 43.5. Ports look to have been modified, and the
cam is a Piper BP285.
Was running a Weber DFT carb and a 4-2-1 manifold into a standard
exhaust. Unfortunately, I never actually drove the thing as it was out
of MoT. Was misfiring badly, but turned out to have a u/s plug lead
and a cracked coil terminal, so that should be easy to fix.
Anyway, I'm interested to hear any ideas as to the origin of the
engine, as I'm going to need some spares for it. At a minimum, I need
a head gasket set and stretch bolts. Plan at the moment is a de-coke
and re-assembly, ready to go into the 2+2, either using the Weber, or
a set of R6 bike carbs that came with it.
So, if any of you can provide any information, based on the above,
I'll be very grateful.
Thanks,
Dave.
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