Hi Matt Yes, I did look into this's couple of years ago. Any full cage that you look at will need to come with the full FIA paperwork if you wish to race. Without the official paperwork to prove that it is built to spec, you will fail scrutaneering. I remember being quoted £1100 for a full installation complete with papers. But sadly can not remember who by. Sorry. However, you will need to make sure that the cage is bolted to the metalwork inside the sills, this is in order to spread the loads into the shell In The event of a roll over. Gain access by removing the GRP in the correct areas.bolt in NOT weld in. The heat transfer could cause major problems with the GRP. You need to think very carefully about the floor. If you bolt the seat to the floor and you get into a pickle out there, it would be possible in an extreme case for the seat to disappear through the floor with you in it. This is not the best way to continue racing ! Either reinforce the floor substantialy with GRP not metal. Or better still, get seat mounting points welded to the cage, also all seat belt mounting points must be cage mounted. Picking up on the rear shock towers is easy, but it might be a little harder on the front towers. There are fairly big holes cut into the bulkhead for the steering Coloum and the brake pedal to work through. Although I can not see a problem with cutting a couple of more holes in the bulkhead for the cage to pass through, I would not want to have them cut near other large holes as you will start to weaken the structure. Be warned you are in a new area here as I am not aware of any other Coupe with a full cage. Do make sure that there is a bar between the a pillars where the dash fitted. Again, although the bulkhead is very strong, the more full your cage is the better. Please do remember you will be adding weight to the car and that some of it will be high up increasing the centre of gravity. You may wish to consider replacing most of the glass for polycarbonate. Also from experience, I have found that increasing weight at the back of the car improves road holding. The Coupe is light at the back and thus will spin around when on the edge. Usefull items to relocate near the back are the battery and plumbed in fire extinguisher. Just in front or just behind the axel are good places, not right at the back of the boot area. The body at the back flexes, (this is part of the reason the rear three peices of glass come unglued on the road cars) so install a GRP bulkhead to the rear, from leading edge of parcel shelf to the floor. This will help add weight at the back and stop the battery and fire extinguisher flying into the car if you have a lack of luck moment, it should also stiffen the rear of the shell as well. If you can, try to weigh everything that goes into the car to get the weight balance right. If possible build the car on a set of corner weights so you can carefully adjust your loading on each wheel. Another good tip that I have found to work, lower the front seats down as far as possible, mine are approx spaced off the floor by 1.0cm and also move the two front seats in near the exhaust tunnel as close as they will go. If you can just get your hand between the seats for the handbrake, you've got it right, this will allow the car to change direction much faster. Good for chicanes. I may also bring to your attention that weight can potentially be taken out of the nose one and bonnet areas. If you need any further help. Give me a shout. Eddie
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