Is there a clear guide of how to set up a DNS VM in Qubes OS?

I tried setting up dnsmasq in the VPN VM behind sys-firewall, both with 
NetworkManager and as a standalone service.  It didn't work.  I also tried 
on another VM behind the VPN VM.  

All I got working is making DNS requests to the specific VM.  E.g. 

$ dig example.com @10.137.0.23

But I wasn't able to hijack the DNS requests with iptables for general 
requests without "@".  tcpdump seems to indicate that the DNS queries don't 
even get routed through the VPN VM, which doesn't make sense to me, so I 
might be missing something.

Any clear step-by-step guide anywhere?

Thanks.

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