FINDING MY RELIGION
Buddhist pastor Heng Sure talks about his 2�-year
pilgrimage up the California coast

Source >
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2005/05/02/findrelig.DTL


David Ian Miller, Special to SF Gate

Monday, May 2, 2005
 
Buddhist pastor Heng Sure went on a 2 1/2 year silent
pil...



Rev. Heng Sure likes to talk. Wander into the Berkeley
Buddhist monastery where he resides as pastor, and if
you're lucky enough to find him there, he might ask
you to sit down for a cup of tea and conversation
about anything from ancient Chinese Buddhist texts to
the pros and cons of the latest Macintosh operating
system. Before you know it, you've been chatting for
two hours. Actually, you've been listening while he
does most of the talking.

That's why it's hard to believe that Sure, who grew up
in a Methodist Scots-Irish family in Ohio before
converting to Buddhism while attending graduate school
at UC Berkeley in the '60s, went six years without
saying a word. He took a vow of silence in 1977 after
being ordained as a Mahayana monk.

At that time, Sure also began an arduous, 2�-year
walking pilgrimage from downtown Los Angeles to the
City of Ten Thousand Buddhas, in Talamage, near Ukiah,
with a fellow monk. Along the way, he completed a full
prostration, or bow to the ground, every three steps.

In part one of a two-part interview, I talk with Sure
about how he became a Buddhist and his experiences
during his long journey. Next week, I'll speak with
him about how Buddhism fits into his larger worldview.
Monks in the Chinese Buddhist tradition are given a
new name after they're ordained. Often, it's designed
to help them progress along their spiritual path. What
does your name mean?

Heng Sure means "constantly real." I was in theater
before I became a monk. As an actor, the quality of
your role is determined by how well you portray the
illusion. My bad habit was to continue the illusion
offstage. So the name is a reminder to always get back
to the truth, get back to what's genuine and real.

What kind of acting did you do?

I was in summer stock -- Broadway musicals, mostly. I
was Guy Masterson in "Guys and Dolls," J. Pierpont
Finch in "How to Succeed in Business" and Mr.
Applegate in "Damn Yankees."

That's quite a transition -- from musical theater to a
Buddhist monastery. How do you relate to your former
life as an actor?

You know, theater is theater. It was great fun. I
still remember all the songs and a lot of the
librettos. But I've been a monk now longer than I was
a layman. So I think there's a place for
entertainment, but I also know there's also a time for
looking deeper.

How did you discover Buddhism? I'm guessing there
weren't many Buddhists in Toledo, Ohio, where you grew
up in the 1950s and '60s, right?

The key to my spiritual path, the turning point, was
the Chinese language. My mother's older sister worked
in Washington, D.C., at the U.S. Information Agency.
And her beat was Asia. She sent me a catalog -- I was
13 years old at the time -- of a Chinese painter's
exhibit. I saw the Chinese characters in the catalog,
and something about them really caught my eye. It was
-- I don't know -- like I had seen them before.

So you started learning Chinese?

Yes. I was lucky enough to study Chinese language in
high school. It was one of three programs in America
at that time, I think. And my parents, bless their
hearts, said, "Go ahead -- it will be broadening." So
that was the path I followed all the way through
university. I got my master's at Berkeley in Oriental
languages. And, at that point, I met my Buddhist
teacher, Venerable Master Hsuan Hua.

How did you meet him?

My former college roommate had come out to California
and met him at Gold Mountain Monastery, which was
located in, of all places, a converted mattress
factory in the Mission District. One day he called me
up and said, "Hey, remember we used to talk about how
someday we wanted to go find a patriarch of Buddhism?"
We used to talk about meeting such a person in the
Himalayas -- maybe Rishikesh [in India,] or Indonesia.
But my friend said, "No. he's right here in San
Francisco. Come on over and meet the abbot." So I
drove my Volvo across the Bay Bridge and walked into
this old building on 15th and Valencia. And I had a
very unusual experience.

What happened?

At the time, I had come gone through two years in my
graduate program, and the Vietnam War was raging. I
was thinking, "Do I want to be an academic? Nah, too
sterile. Do I want to be a folk singer? Nah, too
risky, too dirty. Do I want to go to Canada? Nah,
that's not the right thing." All of this was running
through my head. But when I walked in the door of the
monastery and smelled the smells, felt the chill in
the air, heard the bells and saw the stillness in
there, all of that stuff racing around in my mind fell
away. The doubts and fears just drained out through my
toes. And I distinctly heard a quiet voice say,
"You're back. Go to work. You're home."

So you began studying with Master Hsuan Hua at the
monastery. What did he teach you?

He was from Manchuria -- a Chinese Buddhist monk who
was the real deal, practicing dharma. It was not, you
know, "We're doing Zen because it adds to our
lifestyle." He taught it from an ethical foundation:
How you were as a person was as important as what you
practiced; it was the source of what you practiced. He
taught us as much about Confucius as he did about the
Buddha. The other thing he drilled into me was the
importance of education. I'd been in school
continuously for 18 years, but I wasn't really
interested in the life of the mind. When I met Master
Hsuan Hua, I could just see that he had this love of
learning. There was joy for him in watching young
people's minds encounter knowledge and growth. Pure
joy.

Let's talk about the pilgrimage you made after
becoming a bikshu, or Buddhist monk, in 1977. Over a
period of 2� years, you and a fellow monk walked from
Los Angeles up the coast of California, doing a
complete prostration every three steps along the way.
That must have been incredibly difficult.

Yeah. The bowing was hard enough, but the toughest
thing was being silent. I took a vow of silence for
six years [beginning with the pilgrimage].

What was the most challenging part about being silent
for so long?

The hardest thing was being patient, watching my mind
want to talk. We're really hardwired to communicate.
One of the joys of being human is this gift of speech
-- it's magic. So, when I just bit that off and
stopped talking, it didn't subside for a long time.
There was a moment when I noticed that I hadn't been
forming words for about a week. At that point, the
sutra (religious text) that I carried on my back --
it's the sutra that I was bowing to -- came alive. It
was funny -- the words on the page became like a
commentary to the world I was seeing around me once my
mind was really quiet. What I discovered was that,
strangely enough, we are wired to connect to the
outside world in really subtle and powerful ways, but
once we come inside to live under a roof, all that
goes to sleep.

If you couldn't speak, how did you communicate while
you were on the road?

I didn't have to say much -- the other monk did all
the talking. My job was to concentrate my mind.

So, why did you go on the pilgrimage in the first
place?

I decided that if I could transform my own greed, my
anger, my delusions through walking, staying silent
and doing the prostrations, then maybe I could do
something to make the world more peaceful. I would
work on the part of the unpeaceful world that I could
control, my own thoughts and words. So the pilgrimage
was for world peace, but starting with my own mind.

You mean that by controlling your own behavior, you
were symbolically promoting world peace?

It was more than symbolic. You have to understand that
I was very involved with politics as a college
student. I saw my friends getting their heads broken
during the Chicago police riots at the Democratic
National Convention. I was in school when Dr. Martin
Luther King Jr. was assassinated and Robert Kennedy
died. So here I was as a grad student, trying to
figure out what in the world made sense to do, how I
should respond to these events. And my thought was,
"Well, the traditional Buddhist answer is that you
work from the inside. You start from your own mind."
Everything is made with the mind alone in Buddhism --
that's one of the idioms. I thought if I could
actually understand my own confusion, then that's
real. That's not theater. It's not trying to shake my
fist at the military-industrial complex. It's not
dropping out and getting stoned. It's actually getting
to the root of the problem, my own thoughts of greed
and delusion.

What was it like out there on the road? What kinds of
people did you encounter?

We met every kind of person you can imagine. Many
showed acts of kindness and generosity. Some were not
so nice. We had guns held to our heads three times.

People held guns to your head? Were they hoping to rob
you?

No. We were robbed half a dozen times, but not at
gunpoint. Some people just decided to cock a gun at us
-- I don't know why. Marty [the other monk] would say
to them, "Hi, we're Buddhist monks on a pilgrimage for
world peace. Can we offer you some literature?" And
somehow they never pulled the trigger. But what
happened much more often was that people would
spontaneously offer to help us.

What's an example of that?

We were going through Santa Cruz. It was early in the
morning, and as I came up from a bow, I noticed this
10-year-old girl riding her bike toward us. She was
carrying a package, and she said, "Mister, this is my
sandwich. I think you're going to need if it you're
going to go all the way down there. Here you go." So
she handed it to me. Those kinds of encounters way
outnumbered the hostility we experienced.

Were you ever in serious danger?

There was a time around San Luis Obispo when these
kids made it their job every day after school to buzz
us with their trucks. They'd go by in a cloud of dust,
and the gravel would just cover us. It was real scary,
because who knows who these kids were? And I took it,
you know, because I'm supposed to be the bowing monk,
I'm supposed to be in charge of my mind. But after a
while, like weeks, I would be thinking, "Oh, my God,
it's four o'clock. Got another hour to bow, and here
they come. One afternoon I noticed these kids pulled
their cars up, their pickup trucks, in the parking
lot. So I started reciting a mantra about compassion.
But really I was thinking, "Come on, Bodhisattva,
smash them. Protect me." And suddenly I opened my
eyes, and there was the abbot, my master, Hsuan Hua,
standing in the parking lot in sandals.

What was he doing there?

I think he had driven down from San Francisco that
day. Anyway, he smiled at me and walked over to the
pickup trucks with the kids. He started chatting with
them. They were thrilled to have this guy who looked
like a kung fu master come over and talk to them. He
gave them beads or something, and they gave him a
Coke. Afterward, I realized I had been using this
great compassion mantra like a weapon. I had seen
myself as a victim. I was not paying attention to my
work as a monk. One thing about the abbot was that his
teachings always came right on time. And he said to me
that afternoon, "That's not compassion." The next day,
as I was bowing, the same kids came by, but they were
just parked there, watching. Later, I heard one of
them say, "Good luck, monk. You're still weird, but
good luck."

Where did you sleep while you were traveling? Did you
stay in people's houses?

Actually, we took a vow not to go indoors during those
three years. We had a '57 Plymouth station wagon that
we'd sleep in at night because it would hold our
Buddha image, our sutras and our cooking pots.

What did you eat?

We mostly ate wild plants, wild greens on the
roadside. We got a copy of Euell Gibbons' "Stalking
the Wild Asparagus" from a high school biology teacher
in Santa Barbara who was worried we might not know the
difference between, say, Queen Anne's lace and
hemlock.

What were some of the main lessons from your time on
the road?

I learned a lot about my own mental habits. I kind of
caught on to my mind's tricks. We learn these stories
about ourselves, these perceptions that we get from
our folks, from our TVs, from our friends. And I saw
the dimensions of that. I saw the limits of my
understanding of right and wrong, of self and others.
These are all things that our mind makes. They aren't
the whole of the mind. The sutras compare this to
bubbles on top of the ocean. The mind is the ocean,
you know. By bowing and being quiet, slowly, slowly, I
went deeper into the ocean. It's deep, deep water.

Do you ever go back into that deep water? I mean, will
you ever hit the road again?

It's kind of like spelunking. When you meditate, you
go down into your mind, and you put a mark wherever
you stop. Then you come back up to the surface.
Eventually, you go down, and you mark it again. I
don't know if I'll ever hit the road again, but I
still meditate; I still bow. So you could say I'm
still on the pilgrimage. But it may take lifetimes --
who knows how long? -- to get to the bottom.

Next Week: How Buddhism fits into Rev. Heng Sure's
larger worldview.

During his far-flung career in journalism, Bay Area
writer and editor David Ian Miller has worked as a
city hall reporter, personal finance writer, cable
television executive and managing editor of a
technology news site. His writing credits include
Salon.com, Wired News and The New York Observer.










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