All back to stock, and still working. Dial accuracy is a lot better, and
I'm pulling in all sorts of stuff on 40m with a magnetic loop in my
basement. It's good enough.

Now onto the R-390 this week (and beyond). It has issues, very low
distorted audio. I haven't done much besides plug it in and bring it up
slowly to test it out.

Are there any caps/resistors in an R-390 that should be replaced off the
bat? It seems weird without electrolytics like the R390A.

On Sat, Oct 4, 2025 at 6:24 PM Les Locklear <[email protected]> wrote:

> That's great! Who knows what the gremlin was, the main thing is it's
> working!
>
> Les
>
>
> *----- Original Message -----*
> *From:* Adam Morehouse <[email protected]>
> *To:* Les Locklear <[email protected]>
> *Cc:* R390 qth list <[email protected]>
> *Sent:* 10/4/2025 5:14:36 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [R-390] R-392
> ------------------------------
> Les,
>
> I just took the PTO out and apart, nothing was apparently wrong, but I
> reflowed the connections for the 2 caps. Before I put the bottom decks back
> in, I noticed a connection between the bottom of the RF and the crystal
> calibrator...like a button that makes contact between them when put
> together. It was pretty smooshed and not making contact. I fixed that, and
> after putting it all together...it works.
>
> Loud and clear,  the dial is about 25kc off. I might stick the original RF
> deck back in and see if it's closer and still working, then do an alignment
> (my first on a R39x...)
>
> What a strange issue but im glad it's fixed. Whatever it was...
>
> Adam
>
> On Sat, Oct 4, 2025, 17:22 Les Locklear <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Open the PTO don't be scared of it. You will probably find two small temp
>> compensating caps, 10 pf if my memory is working. They have a tendency to
>> spring away from their solder connection maybe from a drop or whatever.
>> Reflow the joint and test. I found that problem with a 1962 Amelco R-390A
>> PTO.
>>
>> Les Locklear
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Adam Morehouse <[email protected]>
>> To: Jacques Fortin <[email protected]>
>> Cc: R-390 Mailing List <[email protected]>
>> Sent: 10/4/2025 3:14:56 PM
>> Subject: Re: [R-390] R-392
>>
>> ________________________________________________________________________________
>>
>> > Alright, so the oscillator is working. I think my problem has to do with
>> > the PTO.
>> >
>> > When I bought the T-195/GRC-19 it came with a tote of parts - I swapped
>> the
>> > AF/IF/Crystal Calibrator decks out - made no difference. Then I swapped
>> RF
>> > decks - no difference.
>> >
>> > I noticed the wiring harness for the big plug on the AF deck had some
>> > electrical tape, I unwrapped it and don't see any damaged wires,
>> switches
>> > behind the front plate look clean, with no loose or broken wires.
>> >
>> > But it still makes noises when I gently tap around. I left it tuned to a
>> > nearby AM station and flipped the unit over, and it (kinda) came to
>> life.
>> > Squealing, and awful sounding - tapping around with a screwdriver,
>> > primarily on the PTO seems to affect it the most.
>> >
>> > Anyone have experience with that? Here's a video....
>> >
>> > https://photos.app.goo.gl/AZga9HyCqnJ1hyo18
>> >
>> > On Fri, Oct 3, 2025 at 9:29 AM Jacques Fortin <[email protected]>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hello Adam,
>> >> Swapping the tubes is a good idea, but that do not insure that the 1st
>> >> Xtal oscillator is actually working...
>> >> You should try to measure if there is any signal on the V401 plate.
>> >> This being said, I do not own a R-392, but it is similar to a
>> R-390/URR in
>> >> architecture.
>> >> Do you have a copy of the TM11-858 or the TM11-5820-334-35 ??
>> >>
>> >> 73, Jacques, VE2JFE in Montreal
>> >>
>> >> -----Message d'origine-----
>> >> De : [email protected] <[email protected]> De
>> la
>> >> part de Adam Morehouse
>> >> Envoyé : 2 octobre 2025 13:59
>> >> À : R-390 Mailing List <[email protected]>
>> >> Objet : Re: [R-390] R-392
>> >>
>> >> Managed to get the V401/V203 tubes out with a little bit of gorilla
>> tape
>> >> as a puller. The silicone puller I bought just slips right off them...
>> >>
>> >> I swapped tubes, no changes. The switch seems to be working fine, when
>> I
>> >> first start playing with this thing, if I tapped the chassis it would
>> click
>> >> in the speaker, like a bad connection, etc. I took the bottom decks
>> out,
>> >> and dropped the front panel and saw nothing obvious poking around. Now
>> that
>> >> it's back together, its gone.
>> >>
>> >> A lot of the tubes do test "low" on my Heathkit TT-1 tube tester (TV-7
>> in
>> >> the pile of stuff to restore/calibrate).
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> V401
>> >>
>> >> 1.  -.3 / 118k
>> >>
>> >> 2.  .01 / 8.4
>> >>
>> >> 3.  5.8 / 6.2
>> >>
>> >> 4.  11.38 / 10.3
>> >>
>> >> 5.  21.9 / 1k
>> >>
>> >> 6.  21.9 / 1k
>> >>
>> >> 7.  .013 / 8.4
>> >>
>> >> V203
>> >>
>> >> 1. 0 / 107k
>> >>
>> >> 2. 0 / 3.5k
>> >>
>> >> 3. 0 / .3
>> >>
>> >> 4. 23.99 / 3.7
>> >>
>> >> 5. 10.5v / 8.8M
>> >>
>> >> 6. .17 /  OL
>> >>
>> >> 7. 23.15 / 2k
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, Oct 1, 2025 at 8:08 PM Adam Morehouse <[email protected]>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Hey guys,
>> >>>
>> >>> Doing a little tinkering between classes (18 credits is awful...). I
>> >>> decided to try out a R-392 that came with a T-195 I bought this
>> summer.
>> >>> It's nice and clean inside, no obvious defects - but is completely
>> >>> dead below 8MHz. Any idea where I should start my search when I dig
>> into
>> >> this?
>> >>>
>> >>> Thanks for any help or pointers...
>> >>>
>> >>> Adam
>> >>>
>> >> ______________________________________________________________
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>> >>
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>> >>
>> >>
>> > ______________________________________________________________
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>>
>
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