The `fontland` library does not have an official public API but it will give 
you the answer, which is 1446.

#lang racket
(require fontland fontland/ttf-glyph)
(define f (open-font "/System/Library/Fonts/Supplemental/Arial Unicode.ttf"))
;; `layout` uses OpenType positioning & substitution tables to create a glyph 
run,
;; which is a structure with two vectors: a vector of glyphs and a vector of 
glyph positions
;; once we have the glyph we can `glyph-decode` it and inspect its yMax value.
(match (layout f "♖")
  [(glyphrun (vector glyph _ ...) _) (hash-ref (glyph-decode glyph) 'yMax)])



> On 21 Jul 20, at 4:25 AM, Jens Axel Søgaard <jensa...@soegaard.net> wrote:
> 
> It helps to use the correct font...
> 
> It turns out the chess rook is not in "Courier", it is in  "Arial Unicode MS".
> The raw pango functions aren't clever enough to find an alternative font,
> but I think `text` from `pict` is. I am not sure of the details here though.

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