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Events
Transitional Events
If you're lucky you'll see a Minang procession on the road. These could
celebrate, for example, that a man has just become an uncle-an even more
significant transition here than when a man becomes a father. Another
traditional ceremony, Batagak Panghulu, is held to replace a village headman.
This two-day event is enlivened with a debating session. Dress nicely on a
Sunday and you may find a wedding to go to; wedding processions could very
well take place down any one of Padang's, Solok's, or Bukittinggi's streets.
Usually Minang weddings start at 0700 and last all day and night, especially
on the last Sunday before Ramadan begins. Weddings display a curious blend of
old and new customs. The bride might wear the traditional Minangkabau wedding
attire with a magnificent gaudy golden headdress, while her ladies-in-waiting
cover their heads discreetly in Muslim scarves.
Racing
When it's time to prepare the rice fields for planting, many villages hold a
pacu sapi, or bull race. Cattle compete by racing down a muddy field pulling
rice plows behind them. Duck racing (pacu itik) is held only in the tiny
village of Limbukan near Payakumbuh. Ask about the riotous bareback horse
races (pacu kuda) held at least once every three months in each of the
following towns: Padang, Solok, Padangpanjang, Bukittinggi, Batusangkar,
Pariaman, Payakumbuh. They're a major, well-organized event, with vividly
dressed jockeys. The Minangkabau also race dogs.
Bullfights
Also called lagu minang, this exciting event pits bull against bull.
Bullfights are usually held twice a week in the vicinity of Kotobaru, 10 km
south of Bukittinggi; fights are also held in Pasarrebo, Kotolawas, and
Pincuran Tujuh. Ask bemo drivers for times and locales. These events are the
province of village men; few women attend. Quite popular; there could be as
many as 1,000 spectators.
There are two types: adu kerbau (a pair of water buffalo) and adu sapi or adu
lembu (a pair of cattle bulls). They don't actually fight to the death; the
contest is more a test of stamina and strength than ferocity. Most of the fun
is watching the animated locals make their bets (up to Rp200,000 on a single
wager). Buyers from the livestock markets look over the potential stud bulls:
a good fighter is a good breeder. The owner, beaming proudly, might get a
very good price for the victorious bull.
A bullfight could last for a minute or an hour. Sometimes the bulls are
knocked unconscious in their first impact as blood flows from their nostrils
and dirt flies and horns lock, grinding and butting. Sometimes the two bulls
chase each other around and the onlookers scatter in every direction, having
the time of their lives. Magic is also invoked to make the bulls win. The
trainers stand by each of their beasts and blow into a length of frayed rope.
Called main angin, this is said to breathe strength into their animals.
Pig-Hunting
The quintessential male activity in the Minangkabau Highlands. Males of all
ages, titles, and classes take part in this violent and exciting sport. There
are hunt associations with elected chairmen in nearly every village; from bus
windows you often see men with their hunting dogs along the roadside.
Locations and times of the hunt are often posted in the town lepau (coffee
shop), snack house, or toko.
Armed with hatchets, knives, spears, and a few old rifles, as many as 50-100
men participate. The hunters pile into a chartered bus early Sunday morning
and head for the wilderness. The dogs, snapping and barking, strain at their
leashes. Once a pig is flushed out or a fresh trail discovered, the hunt
leader (muncak rajo) gives the word to release the dogs. When the pig has
been run down, the dogs start tearing at its carcass.
Not only is it a traditional sport, but pig-hunting also helps to protect
crops. It's believed that embodied in the pig-a religiously taboo animal-is
the soul of an evil human sorcerer or magician who is being punished by
Allah. The activity is also a sanctioned release from the rigid constraints
and formalities of Minang society and its customary laws. It's a time when
ordinarily refined and correct members of the community become-for one
day-rowdy, roughly dressed, noisy marauders.
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