Assalamualaikum w.w. para sanak sa palanta,
 
Artikel di bawah berkisah tentang pengalaman serta kritik seorang wisatawan di 
Sumbar, dimuat dalam 'The Jakarta Post' tahun 3003, enam tahun yang lalu.
 
Rasanya keadaan yang diceritannya tak banyak yang berubah sampai sekarang. 
Positifnya, yang bersangkutan mengatakan bahwa tak hanya di Sumbar keadaan 
seperti itu terdapat, tetapi juga di seluruh Indonesia.
 
Jadi dalam ke-amburadul-an pariwisata ini teman kita banyak.


Wassalam,
Saafroedin Bahar
(L, masuk 72 th, Jakarta; Tanjuang, Soetan Madjolelo)
Alternate e-mail address: [email protected];
[email protected]


West Sumatra: Great attractions, shame about the rest 
The Jakarta Post ,  Jakarta   |  Sun, 07/27/2003 5:26 PM  |  Life 
Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Padang
 
A recent vacation in West Sumatra made me realize how we Indonesians take 
things for granted all the time. In this case, our natural resources.
Just like almost all the other regions in this country, West Sumatra is 
amazingly beautiful and has all that a visitor may desire. 
Fancy the sun? Go to the capital of Padang, with its relatively clean beaches a 
few kilometers away. If you prefer a cooler place, take a visit to the tourist 
haven of Bukittinggi about 72 kilometers from the provincial capital. 
Or visit the sprawling lakes dotting the province to catch postcard-pretty 
images of silvery water as sunshine kisses the surface. Breathtaking. 
But, just like other regions in the country, the natural resources are not 
being used to their full potential. I'm not talking about brutal 
commercialization, but measures to make sure tourist attractions are free from 
garbage, hoodlums, bad service and lack of information. 
West Sumatra's proximity to Jakarta is one of the reasons it is worth a visit, 
with cheaper than ever airfares of about Rp 400,000 for the 90-minute flight 
(it takes you Rp 350,000 and 30 hours by bus). 
My group rented cars for trips within the province, and our first stop after 
Tabing airport in Padang was Batusangkar, some 90 minutes drive to the north of 
the capital, the place to take a look at some archaeological relics. 
There are several ancient inscriptions, including those dating from the era of 
king Adityavarman back in the 14th century. It's too bad (the first ""too 
bad"") they have not been well maintained. 
Fences have been built around the inscriptions, and there are makeshift roofs 
over them. But as you step forward to take pictures, your camera will be mired 
in spider webs. 
Looking for some history about the inscriptions? The existing information 
consists of poorly photocopied paper glued on a board. 
We visited a house where a mystical stone called Batu Angke-angke attracts 
people who lift it in the hope of having their wishes granted. As we watched 
one person after another fail to lift the seemingly light stone, the house 
owner's family was in the same room, watching TV or gabbing on the phone. The 
mystical vibe vanished pretty quickly. 
In downtown Batusangkar, the old Dutch fort Van Der Kappelen is badly damaged 
after being used for a local police station. About the only thing telling of 
the history of the place was ""1824"" written on the gate. 
One tourist attraction that can be praised for its good maintenance is Istana 
Pagaruyung, an old palace in Batusangkar. 
Situated on five hectares, the palace is on the site of the residence of the 
last Minang king, Raja Alam Bagagarsyah Johan Berdaulat, who died in 1849.. 
Renovated in 1976 and again after a fire in the mid-1980s, there are several 
buildings on the grounds, the main one a sturdy structure in a boat-like 
design, distinguished by pillars which are tilted to buffer earthquake tremors. 
Indian and Chinese influences can be seen in the curtains, tapestry, bedcovers 
and pillowcases. You are likely to get one of the guides who is very fluent 
(and tries to show off her good English even with Indonesians), as well as very 
proud of the matriarchal culture of West Sumatra. 
""I love being a Minang woman because all of the property goes to me, not my 
brothers,"" she said firmly. You go, girl! 
But the smile became a frown when none of us was willing to be photographed in 
traditional costumes. 
Bukittinggi was the next stop. A two-hour drive from Padang, it is located on 
the beautiful plateau of Agam. The center of tourism, it is a pleasant place to 
shop, eat or look at the old Minang houses, with their roofs arched in the 
shape of buffalo horns. 
It was time for another ""too bad"". 
At Ngarai Sianok canyon in the city center, as I stood on the edge of the 
canyon admiring the view, a vendor threw a bucket full of garbage into the 
canyon. Local hoodlums also tried to get some money from us as we asked them 
for supposedly free brochures at the tourist information booth. 
Nearby Fort de Kock is a nice and clean park, with an old fort built in 1825 
where the late founding father Mohamad Hatta was once interned by the Dutch 
colonial government. There is a bridge, a much smaller version of the famed 
Golden Gate, which connects the fort with Bukittinggi's notoriously bad zoo. 
The day before our departure was lake day as we visited all the big lakes in 
West Sumatra: Maninjau, where we had to pass 44 head-spinning roadturns; 
Singkarak, the habitat of endemic Bilih fish that are smoked and sold to 
visitors, and the twin lakes Danau Di Atas (Upside Lake) and Danau Di Bawah 
(Downside Lake). 
We had trouble enjoying Maninjau and Singkarak close up as they have no 
lakefront. The trip to the twin lakes was pleasant with tea plantations along 
the road, but we got lost several times as there were no signs to guide us. 
When we got to the lakes -- surprise, surprise -- there was garbage all over 
the place. 
Despite the discomfort, and the regret about how such a beautiful place is not 
being promoted and maintained, I had fun. 
I enjoyed a delicious bowl of the local version of soto (soup) Garuda in Jl.. 
S. Parman, Padang. I greatly admired the skillful hands of weavers in making 
state-of-the-art cloth near Bukittinggi, where I also went on a shopping spree. 
I grimaced but laughed as I walked on ""reflexology bridge"", a 50-meter stone 
bridge in Bukittinggi. 
As I reflected on the trip on my way home, I suddenly remembered a train trip 
from Jakarta to my hometown Bandung, West Java. I was accompanied by an 
Australian friend who had traveled extensively all over the world. 
He looked at the green scenery outside the window in total wonderment. 
""There's no scenery like this anywhere else in this world,"" he said, pointing 
to the rice field terraces, the mountains and the rivers. 
Of course, I was used to all of the beauty around me. Now I realize that the 
moment we see it from the other point of view is when we will stop taking our 
country for granted. Otherwise, all of our riches may be gone before we know 
it. 
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