Quoting George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com>:

>
> Now, this is not to imply that a similar thing couldn't happen to a
> threaded set up, but they're usually things you have to look for ahead
> of time anyway - are the top and bottom edges of head tube straight
> and parallel, is the crown race evenly seated, is the crown surface
> onto which it gets seated even and perpendicular to the steering tube,
> etc.  But beyond that, I would agree that the threadless set up is
> more convenient from a tourist's stand point inasmuch as the only tool
> really needed to remove the stem (or the bars from the stem, for that
> matter) is a hex key wrench.
>

The only tool you need to remove a threaded stem is a hex wrench.  Not  
true, of course for removing the bars from the stem.  But, unless  
you're packing the bike for air travel, how often do you do that?  And  
that advantage is primarily for the open faceplate design, which only  
coincidentally is a threadless advantage.  You could just as easily  
make an open faceplate threaded stem as a threadless.  (Not that it  
matters that much to me: between punitive surcharges for transporting  
bicycles and the ever-increasing hassles associated with air travel  
imposed in the name of "security", I highly doubt I'll ever want to  
fly again.)

And, for that matter, unless (like my companion on the Black Hills  
trip) you insist on screwing around with the headset adjustment and  
forget to get it taken care of before you set out on your trip, just  
how often does any road rider need to adjust headsets on the road?

Maybe mountain bikers are more likely to need to do headset  
adjustments in the field.  They do a lot of things while riding that a  
road rider would never do, and experience impacts and shocks you'd  
never get on the road.




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