wow, everything you ever wanted to know.  thanks.  had a double one on
my easy racer tour easy.  have a rear triangle one on my kogswell.
that stand is ugly, but works like a charm.  think the bleriot deseves
to join the kickstand club.  think i'll try the make a gasket trick to
protect that fine bluish paint job.

On Aug 15, 2:39 pm, Dave Craig <dcr...@prescott.edu> wrote:
> I've recently rediscovered kickstands after decades of thinking they
> were too geeky for my bikes. In fact, I've kind of become sort of a
> kickstand evangelist! I've got experience now on several bikes with
> three major types of stands, the two you describe and the pletscher
> double kickstand. They all work fine, although on a recent tour, I had
> to reluctantly admit that the rear triangle stand I had installed on
> my wife's bike worked way better than my Swiss stand. The rear
> triangle mount works great on uneven ground, on hills and with heavy
> touring loads. I used a single leg stand mounted on a kickstand plate.
> I had to be much more attentive to how I parked.
>
> Here's a couple of quick tips for doing a good job on your chainstay
> mounted stand:
>
> 1) Wrap your chainstays to prevent scratching before installing the
> kickstand. Actually, only the areas where the kickstand mounting
> plates contact the frame need to be protected. I do this by cutting
> some "make a gasket" to fit the mounting plates - you'll need to punch
> a hole for the bolt (gasket material is sold in the plumbing section
> at True Value - it is more durable than other materials).
>
> 2) Kickstands often come loose over time. To prevent this, buy a
> stainless steel bolt that is long enough to go through both plates
> with room to attach a nylock nut. Or, with the supplied bolt, use
> Locktite Blue and a lock washer.
>
> 3) Install the stand. Before you tighten it down fully with nylocks or
> otherwise, check to see if your bike leans securely onto the stand. If
> it's too upright, you'll need to trim the kickstand. It is tempting to
> do this while the stand is on the bike and with an electric cutting
> tool, it works. If you are using a hacksaw, take the stand off to cut
> it. You'll do better work and you won't risk damaging your paint. Take
> the time to file down the rough cut edges on the stand. This will make
> the rubber foot last much longer. Use the rubber foot as it makes the
> stand friendlier to floors and it helps keep the stand from sinking
> into soft ground.
>
> 4) Tighten the stand onto the stays. You want to do this carefully and
> incrementally. Tighten and check for play in the plate. If it wiggles
> when you check by hand, tighten it a little more, test, and repeat. Be
> sure you are checking the plate and not the kickstand itself. The
> kickstand has play in it. Watch the mounting plate to see if it moves
> on the chainstays. Recheck your kickstand from time to time.
>
> 5) Kickstanded bikes often fall because the bike rolls forward or
> backward. For really secure kickstand parking, install a simple
> parking brake. I use a loop of narrow bungee cord around the bars tied
> tight enough to keep the brakes applied. The loop stays on my bars.
> When I park, I apply the brakes and I stretch the bungee onto the
> brake lever.  The front wheel is usually the culprit, so I ordinarily
> use that brake as my parking brake.
>
> That's it!!
>
> On Aug 15, 7:12 am, eflayer <eddie.fla...@att.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Will a Pletscher or Greenfield kickstand clamp on the chainstays right
> > behind the seat tube?  I know you can get those clunky ones that mount
> > at the rear of the bike, but was wondering if the space behind the
> > seat tube is condusive?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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