Been using the Clickstand for a while now and it is a clever solution. However, after just finishing a loaded tour, I'm going to try a conventional BB mounted stand for my next trip. The Clickstand absolutely needs the brake on for stability (they tell you this on their website), and I found with the bike loaded setting the brake and stand was a bit of a chore. Especially when I wanted to grab a quick pic or other casual off bike activity.
dougP On Aug 18, 8:27 am, "Frederick, Steve" <[email protected]> wrote: > I used a Clickstand on my last (supported) multiday tour--worked great. For > loaded touring, might want to step up to the heavy duty version... > > http://www.click-stand.com/ > > Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] > > [mailto:[email protected]]on Behalf Of Dave Craig > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:05 AM > To: RBW Owners Bunch > Subject: [RBW] Re: kickstand on Bleriot in the spot behind teh seat > tube? > > Pete > > Thank you for the link to Hebie - wow! > > I have a kickstand mounting plate on my Bombadil, but I also had > little success with the Pletscher stand, even before starting my tour. > I know others have had spoken highly of the two-legged Pletscher, but > the bike simply wasn't stable in wind or on uneven ground and I > abandoned it for a single leg stand mounted on the plate. This was > better. However, I was never very confident in the stand, although my > bike never fell over even with a full touring load. Around town, the > single leg stand works great and I plan on putting one on my new > Quickbeam. > > As I said in my earlier post, the rear triangle stand I mounted on my > wife's bike was superior in every way. She could park on almost any > surface, angle, etc. and her bike was rock solid. The addition of a > parking brake made it even more stable. I was so jealous. If I can't > lay my hands on a Hebie center stand to try out, my next tour will be > with a rear triangle stand. > > Dave > > On Aug 17, 3:34 am, Pete <[email protected]> wrote: > > That is probably the sensible thing to do. Riv and other US > > manufacturers have have learned from the Europeans and started to fit > > such plate on some models so there seem to be a need for it. > > Besides, you get to pick your favorite colour! :P > > > After my experience with the ESGE-Pletscher I tried to get hold of the > > Hebie 605 bi-pod stand. It's supposed to be more durable. But the > > importer in my part of the woods wasn't up for it. But I think they > > are worth a look:http://www.hebie.de/Home.1.0.html?&L=1 > > > Clever Cycles spec them so they seem to be available in the > > US:http://clevercycles.com/store/?c=web2.173 > > > They also make a durable one leg stand that mount to the rear stays > > but it's perhaps not as nice on the eye. > > ;) > > > On 17 Aug, 07:46, David Estes <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Yikes! > > > > In the near future I want to send my All Rounder to Mark N. and have a > > > plate > > > put on. Pretty easy to get that done, it's then having it re-painted that > > > kills ya'! > > > > DE > > > > On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 1:19 PM, Pete <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > The Bleriot chainstays are probably a bit thicker than most tube sets. > > > > But I must tell you I had a very disappointing experience of the ESGE- > > > > Pletscher double stand. Mounted a new one to my converted MTB-tourer > > > > made from Tange Prestige, not the ul-light version, for a six month > > > > tour from Singapore to Hong Kong. To avoid problems I used both a > > > > nylock nut and soft Loctite but after only a few days the stand came > > > > loose. I mistook this as the nut loosening and started to tight it > > > > down. I still kept coming loose but before I realised what had really > > > > happened one leg snapped straight off! I had the bike fully loaded and > > > > pulled it up on the stand while on a gravel road. One leg ended up on > > > > a stone buried in the sand and shattered right of like glass. A month > > > > or so later in Chiang Mai I had the bike serviced and found out that > > > > in fact the weight of the luggage had pressed the stays down and > > > > deformed them witch was the cause for the stand to come loose. There > > > > were even some holes so I swapped the frame for a new as I was unsure > > > > of the availability of good steel frames in Laos and China. Now, I'm > > > > sure this doesnt happen in most cases where the bike is only used for > > > > light touring, centuries and so on. But it is worth to remember and > > > > maybe considering adding a larger diy support plate between the clamp > > > > and frame. > > > > > On 16 Aug, 00:44, eflayer <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > wow, everything you ever wanted to know. thanks. had a double one on > > > > > my easy racer tour easy. have a rear triangle one on my kogswell. > > > > > that stand is ugly, but works like a charm. think the bleriot deseves > > > > > to join the kickstand club. think i'll try the make a gasket trick to > > > > > protect that fine bluish paint job. > > > > > > On Aug 15, 2:39 pm, Dave Craig <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > I've recently rediscovered kickstands after decades of thinking they > > > > > > were too geeky for my bikes. In fact, I've kind of become sort of a > > > > > > kickstand evangelist! I've got experience now on several bikes with > > > > > > three major types of stands, the two you describe and the pletscher > > > > > > double kickstand. They all work fine, although on a recent tour, I > > > > > > had > > > > > > to reluctantly admit that the rear triangle stand I had installed on > > > > > > my wife's bike worked way better than my Swiss stand. The rear > > > > > > triangle mount works great on uneven ground, on hills and with heavy > > > > > > touring loads. I used a single leg stand mounted on a kickstand > > > > > > plate. > > > > > > I had to be much more attentive to how I parked. > > > > > > > Here's a couple of quick tips for doing a good job on your chainstay > > > > > > mounted stand: > > > > > > > 1) Wrap your chainstays to prevent scratching before installing the > > > > > > kickstand. Actually, only the areas where the kickstand mounting > > > > > > plates contact the frame need to be protected. I do this by cutting > > > > > > some "make a gasket" to fit the mounting plates - you'll need to > > > > > > punch > > > > > > a hole for the bolt (gasket material is sold in the plumbing section > > > > > > at True Value - it is more durable than other materials). > > > > > > > 2) Kickstands often come loose over time. To prevent this, buy a > > > > > > stainless steel bolt that is long enough to go through both plates > > > > > > with room to attach a nylock nut. Or, with the supplied bolt, use > > > > > > Locktite Blue and a lock washer. > > > > > > > 3) Install the stand. Before you tighten it down fully with nylocks > > > > > > or > > > > > > otherwise, check to see if your bike leans securely onto the stand. > > > > > > If > > > > > > it's too upright, you'll need to trim the kickstand. It is tempting > > > > > > to > > > > > > do this while the stand is on the bike and with an electric cutting > > > > > > tool, it works. If you are using a hacksaw, take the stand off to > > > > > > cut > > > > > > it. You'll do better work and you won't risk damaging your paint. > > > > > > Take > > > > > > the time to file down the rough cut edges on the stand. This will > > > > > > make > > > > > > the rubber foot last much longer. Use the rubber foot as it makes > > > > > > the > > > > > > stand friendlier to floors and it helps keep the stand from sinking > > > > > > into soft ground. > > > > > > > 4) Tighten the stand onto the stays. You want to do this carefully > > > > > > and > > > > > > incrementally. Tighten and check for play in the plate. If it > > > > > > wiggles > > > > > > when you check by hand, tighten it a little more, test, and repeat. > > > > > > Be > > > > > > sure you are checking the plate and not the kickstand itself. The > > > > > > kickstand has play in it. Watch the mounting plate to see if it > > > > > > moves > > > > > > on the chainstays. Recheck your kickstand from time to time. > > > > > > > 5) Kickstanded bikes often fall because the bike rolls forward or > > > > > > backward. For really secure kickstand parking, install a simple > > > > > > parking brake. I use a loop of narrow bungee cord around the bars > > > > > > tied > > > > > > tight enough to keep the brakes applied. The loop stays on my bars. > > > > > > When I park, I apply the brakes and I stretch the bungee onto the > > > > > > brake lever. The front wheel is usually the culprit, so I > > > > > > ordinarily > > > > > > use that brake as my parking brake. > > > > > > > That's it!! > > > > > > > On Aug 15, 7:12 am, eflayer <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > Will a Pletscher or Greenfield kickstand clamp on the chainstays > > > > right > > > > > > > behind the seat tube? I know you can get those clunky ones that > > > > mount > > > > > > > at the rear of the bike, but was wondering if the space behind the > > > > > > > seat tube is condusive?- Hide quoted text - > > > > > > > - Show quoted text -- Dölj citerad text - > > > > > > - Visa citerad text - > > > > -- > > > Cheers, > > > David > > > Redlands, CA > > > > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something > > > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym." ~Bill Nye, > > > scientist guy- Dölj citerad text - > > > > - Visa citerad text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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