Yes the 78 degree seat tube is correct on the old bike. It is a retired triathlon specific bike and is VERY upright, very short and very stiff. If you are on an aero type bar it is actully not uncomfortable because most of your weight is on your arms. But when you sit up it is like driving a broomhandle........ It is now relegated to a trainer. I also have an old Battaglin road bike that I still ride.
The reason that I thought a longer chain might cause a slower cadence is because there would be more slack in the chain which causes some chain slap and that would change the feel of the bike. To prevent chain slap due to a sligtly unevan pedal cadence I might have slowed down. As to dumping the computer, it is my only cycling vice. I am probably a bigger retrogrouch than Grant Petersen in many ways but I like to see how fast I am going. It also provides the time and I hate to wear a watch while riding. I also have torn ligaments in my ankle so the cadence number is useful to me to keep the ankle from swelling. If I push high gears for too long I cannot walk the next day because the right foot swells. That's why I no longer do the tri-thing because running and swimming exacerbate the problem. All of that is a long way of saying I just found it curious that I naturally use a lower cadence on the Sam than on my other bikes On Mon, Sep 7, 2009 at 9:49 PM, PATRICK MOORE <[email protected]> wrote: > > > On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 10:33 PM, Fai Mao <[email protected]> wrote: > >> >> Several 100 miles into the new Sam Hillborne and I’ve noticed >> something odd. >> >> It seems that I now ride a lower cadence than on the old bike. [...] is >> this something to do with going from a >> 78 degree seat tube to 71.5 degree seat tube? Or, is it possibly a >> function of the longer chain? >> > > 78 degree seat tube? Is that correct? > > Even if "78" is a mistake, and you went from a 73 to a 71.5, that would > (all else equal) put you further behind the bb, and thus encourage a more > powerful and slower cadence. Look at what happens when you climb: you shift > backward on your saddle. But when you sprint, you shift forward. > > As for the longer chain, how do you figure that would slow your cadence? I > can't get it to compute. > > FWIW, I made the mistake long ago of chasing KOPS -- knee over pedal > spindle, the conventional saddle fore-and-aft fitting guide -- and ended up > with my saddle allllllllll the way forward on the rails. Grant advised me to > shove it back and bring the bars in and up, and, now, almost 15 years later, > I use a rubber mallet to ensure my saddles are all the way back on the post > (I use a post with considerable setback). AND, I have gone from spinning low > gears fast to pushing larger ones slow, and I feel much stronger and more > comfortable; in particular, my back is more comfortable even though my bars > are still 2" below saddle. > -- > Patrick Moore > Albuquerque, NM > Professional Resumes. Contact [email protected] > > > > > > > -- Fai Mao The Blogger who sometimes responds to comments --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
