@ Pondero: Andy's got the spirit of the seemingly self effacing "wimp". In 
the face of these mountains, which can throw extremes and multiple 
unexpecteds at any time, everyone is wimpy, puny, insignificant. The rock 
and the wind and the wet rein at will. The wise know this and learn to 
dance with the mountains rather than conquer them. Growing up here, I read 
countless accounts of "experts" at mountaineering, back county skiing, 
hiking, etc., whose friends posthumously praised their outdoor skills, and 
yet they were buried because of hubris.

@ Andy: Och! Aye. The San Juans are amazing, brutal mountains. The first 
backpack trip my wife and I took together was 10 years after your 
adventure. The plan was Ouray to Silverton. The best maps were GSPS surveys 
from the '50's. Locals in Ouray said the trail was good, but they'd never 
taken it more than a day hike (that was our first clue). The morning of day 
two the trail vanished. Poof. absorbed by the still lush September fields 
of hard fought Summer's tundra growth (it takes a looooong time for trails 
to disappear at altitude). I triangulated our position and we continued on. 
Jeep trails not going anywhere we cared to were abundant, we got caught on 
a 13,000 foot saddle with zero count lightening and inch sized hail from 
which my pack descended 2000 feet under it's own power only denting our 
fuel bottle, and were utterly baffled as to where we were when a valley 
that ought to have held a lake did not. We worked our way out to the paved 
highway, hitched back to our car, and drove to Silverton. We learned the 
lake had been mined under a decade before and that because of high 
four-wheeling traffic, hikers no longer used those trails.

With abandon,
Patrick

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