Yes, now we're on the same page. Of course after you cut that steerer the threadless approach doesn't give you much upwards adjustment. That's where I feel the threaded approach wins out.
On Oct 21, 10:01 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <[email protected]> wrote: > "I'm not sure I get this. You can uses spacers with a threaded headset > too. " > > Threaded steerers tend to be sized to the frame - i.e. the steerer is > roughly 4-7 cm longer than the headtube to take up the stack height of > the headset (30-50 mm) and maybe a few 5 mm spacers and/or a cable > hanger, leaving a few threads for the top-nut. Riv's threaded steerers > tend to be on the long side for any given frame size, which allows a > bit more upward bar adjustment. But the point is that the frame size > limits how high the stem can be raised. Of course, you could get a > fork with a threaded steerer sized for a much larger frame, but I've > never actually seen or heard of anyone going to such effort. > > With many frames that have threadless forks, including Surly, the > steerer tube, as it comes out of the box, is the same length for a 14" > frame as it is for a 22" frame. You can clamp the stem anywhere on the > steerer tube and fill the gaps in with spacers. The maximum bar height > with the stem at the top of the uncut steerer is the same for any size > frame. It might look goofy to have a 16" frame with 6" of spacers, but > it can be done. > > I always thought top-tube length is one of the more misoverestimated > dimensions for frame fit considerations. For a classic geometry frame > with a threaded steerer, it's much more important to get a big enough > frame so the bars will be high enough, which is the RBW approach. With > a threadless fork, which is extra long, the main variable to consider > is effective top-tube length, because the height is no longer limited > by frame size. (even then, rider weight distribution on the bike is > more important than tt length, but for any given model, tt length is > the variable we can look at) > > On Oct 21, 7:34 am, usuk2007 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > I'm not sure I get this. You can uses spacers with a threaded headset > > too. > > > On Oct 20, 11:23 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery > > > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Actually what I was trying to say was that the frame size does NOT > > > affect the handlebar height, provided you start with an uncut steerer > > > and can tolerate a stack of headset spacers. This is a key difference > > > between threadless and threaded, and one that is often misunderstood. > > > > On Oct 20, 9:35 am, cyclotourist <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 7:31 AM, Chuck <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > On Oct 19, 11:29 pm, cyclotourist <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > Hey Bicycle experts, just for kicks, if I ride a 62cm framed > > > > > > Rivendell > > > > > > designed bike, what would be the proper sized Karate Monkey for me, > > > > > > an 18 > > > > > or > > > > > > a 20"? > > > > > > > The KMs seem to be the only production 29er frames out there with > > > > > > canti > > > > > > bosses. Gunnar Rockhounds don't have them anymore, and neither > > > > > > does the > > > > > > Salsa El Mariachi. Am I missing any other options (low cost, steel, > > > > > 29ers > > > > > > that take cantis)? KMs seem to have less drop on their top tube > > > > > > which I > > > > > > find better looking than the quick-drop angles on others. > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > David > > > > > > Redlands, CA > > > > > > I don't know what your intended use is for the KM, or what type > > > > > handlebars you plan to use, but I would take a close look at the specs > > > > > before making a size decision. That 22" version has a long (633.6mm) > > > > > effective top tube. > > > > > > I ride a 62cm Surly LHT, and when I was considering building a drop- > > > > > bar KM I pretty much decided that the 20" would be the best fit for > > > > > me. I changed plans completely and never started that project, so > > > > > can't give you much more than that... > > > > > > Chuck > > > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ > > > > > I saw the effective on the 18" was almost 60cm, which is what my Riv > > > > bikes > > > > are (59.5). I lake knowledge on how that translates on a mtn. bike > > > > though... is there some other factor I need to know about or something? > > > > Just going off the top tube, the 18" frame would fit me, but as Jim > > > > mentioned, will the bars be up high enough??? I intend to run > > > > Midge/Garys > > > > FWIW... > > > > > THANKS! > > > > > -- > > > > Cheers, > > > > David > > > > Redlands, CA > > > > > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something > > > > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym." ~Bill Nye, > > > > scientist guy --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
