Spar varnish - is this for boat spars, aircraft wing spars, or both?

On Sat, Apr 12, 2014 at 8:07 AM, Ron Mc <bulldog...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I come from a bamboo fly rod background, and we used flexible coatings to
> turn fibrous materials into tough composites - spar varnish, and maybe as
> exotic as mastic varnish on silk thread wraps or to turn an old silk braid
> into a floating fly line.  When I made my first twine wrap on a bike, it
> was natural for me to coat it with spar varnish.  Later wraps, found out
> shellac is awesome for this application because twine wraps on a bike don't
> need to be flexible - twine it, shellac it, and it's good to go and go.
> More than 2 coats would also be a mistake.
>
> While I haven't tried shellac on cork grips, its use there doesn't make
> sense.  Take a soft grippy material and put a hard slick exoskeleton on it
> - seems to defeat every purpose of a cork grip.
> Three years ago, when I put cork grips on my daughter's upright bike, I
> used spar varnish and here's the result 3 years later - it's soft and
> grippy, and still beads water like a new Ferrari
>
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP4110011.jpg>
>
>
> <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/aaP4110005.jpg>
>
> That's the good news - now the bad news:  you have to be patient, because
> it takes 7 days to do this right (hey, it takes a month to mastic-varnish a
> silk fly line).  You want 5 coats, and wait a day between each coat to let
> it soak and cure.  You apply thin coats and of course the cork sucks it
> right up.  Wait a day and apply another.  It won't be until the 4th coat
> that you can see the cork is sealed and you're apply a build-up.  After the
> last coat, give it two days to cure, and it will still feel tacky - don't
> worry.  Take a lint-free cloth and buff it like you're shining shoes.  You
> will be delighted with the result for years...
>
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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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