<https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRJkljTflQZpICGgTL-zkryouxPpfI4Zgr_se7oniv4mHGyXzbI>
I'm envisioning it's a hub not unlike this one. That chubby
protuberance on the right is >16mm in diameter, so it has to be
removed in order to allow you to slide the Park Tool on. A Park tool
with its hole wowed out to 19mm or wider would fit over that chubby
protuberance.
On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 2:59:41 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
Just for my own clarity's sake - when you say axle cap - are you
referring to the bolt that tightens the hub into the frame? Or are
you referring to the axle piece on the inside of the frame, which
the bolts thread into?
On Wed, Nov 18, 2015 at 4:50 PM, George Schick <[email protected]
<javascript:>> wrote:
Yeah, as I said in one of my replies on this thread, the
"standard" 120mm road axle caps measure 18.87mm, which is way
too wide for the FR-6 to fit over them. One has to remove at
least the DS axle cap in order to get the FR-6 (and presumably
anyone else's tool, as well) to work. That's why I'm trying
to get my FR-6 widened by a machinist to at least 19mm.
I admit that this is a one-off request, but hey, I view this
community and blog to be all about one-off solutions, trying
to mix and match various component to fit with a particular
frame or part :-)
On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-6, Bill
Lindsay wrote:
The OP actually suggests the FR-6 isn't big enough. My
link says up to 16mm, so maybe his Phil hubs axle caps are
larger than 16mm?
On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 1:40:03 PM UTC-8, Mark
Reimer wrote:
Oh you know what, that is the tool I have. I guess
it's not Shimano. Definitely the Park tool!
On Wed, Nov 18, 2015 at 3:34 PM, Bill Lindsay
<[email protected]> wrote:
The Park FR-6 has a large through hole and clears
anything up to 16mm in diameter. Here's a link:
http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-6
<http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-6>
The BMX freewheel removal tool I have barely fits
over a normal threaded axle. So when I had to
pull the FW on my Phil Hub I had to roll down to
the LBS and use theirs. Maybe the OP has what I
have, and maybe both of us need an FR-6.
Bill who-has-a-phil-rear-hub-with-a-bmx-freewheel
Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 11:59:36 AM
UTC-8, George Schick wrote:
Mark - Yep, you've got it exactly. I'm just
trying to figure out an easy way to get the
BMX freewheel tool on there without having to
remove the axle caps. I have several SS
freewheels and I like to interchange them
occasionally, depending on riding conditions.
You're solution works just fine; call me lazy.
David - You've got it exactly, too.
On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 1:33:18 PM
UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
I think folks are putting single speed
freewheels on hubs designed for
multi-speed freewheels, then having
difficult getting the tool over the axle.
David
Chicago
On Wednesday, November 18, 2015 at 1:15:29
PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
I'm a bit confused - I have two sets
of Phil single speed hubs, both with
white industries freewheels on them,
and I've used a plain ol Shimano BMW
freewheel remover to get them off. I
remove the axle bolt, put the tool on,
and then thread the axle bolt back in
to keep the tool engaged and not slip.
Works with hubs spaced 120 and 130. Is
this the same situation?
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at
8:23:43 PM UTC-6, George Schick wrote:
Curiosity got the best of me so I
went down to the shop to take some
actual measurements. The opening
on the FR-6 is 15.29mm; the PW
axle cap diameter is 18.87mm. So
milling out the tool to about 19mm
may not involve removing as
critical an amount of material as
I feared. I think I might go
after this solution. BTW, from
what little I know about machinist
work, I'm thinking this would
probably get done with a vertical
milling machine, not a lathe.
Thanks all for your suggestions.
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015 at
8:07:05 PM UTC-6, George Schick
wrote:
Will - your advice is exactly
how i do it. Then, since the
axle cap can't be reinstalled
with the BMX tool in there, I
shore it up with a couple of
fender washers to support it
on the DS. I have also
thought about your suggestion
to bore out the hole on the
FR-6 tool to fit over the axle
cap (I have a machinist friend
with the lathe), but I fear
that it may leave the
remaining metal too thin to
withstand the torque involved
in removing the freewheel.
Might be worth a shot
sometime, though. They're not
that expensive a tool…
On Tuesday, November 17, 2015
at 7:57:18 PM UTC-6, William
deRosset wrote:
Dear George,
Can you pull the DS and
leave the NDS (my
non-track
end-cap-swappable Phil
hubs are in VT these days,
or I'd check) in place to
locate the QR? All the QR
needs is to provide some
preload to hold the
splines prongs/splines in
place until the freewheel
shifts a bit.
Alternatively, you could
throw your freewheel
remover on the lathe and
bore it out a bit....
Best,
Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO
On Tuesday, November 17,
2015 at 5:32:08 PM UTC-7,
George Schick wrote:
Anyone out there know
of a "BMX" freewheel
removal tool that will
work well with a Phil
Hub? Unfortunately,
the center hole on a
commonly used tool,
like the Park FR-6, is
not large enough to
slip over the
larger-than-normal
axle caps of the Phil
hub. This means that
the axle cap on the
drive side must first
be removed, which is
not only an extra
PITA, but then the
removal tool has to
sit against the
notches on the
freewheel without
benefit of the QR
skewer to hold it in
place, risking the
stripping of the FW
notches in the process.
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