I added a bunch of pics to my gallery on my '88 Schwinn KOM Project-10: https://plus.google.com/photos/109817667934112590257/albums/5930329788956113873
The gallery starts at my acquisition of this bike 2.5 years ago (for $75, score!), and progresses from there. Most recent pics are at the bottom. Sorry for the lousy quality of the recent pics; the weather is bitterly cold and I'm not often home during good daylight. *Quick history*: the '88 KOM was actually the '86-87 Paramountain frame, but they changed it to a Schwinn (without Ned Overend's name on it) after Ned left for Specialized. It's full Tange Prestige tubing, with investment cast lugs, made in Greenville, MS (presumably, in whatever Richard Schwinn set up as a southern approximation of "the cage" from the Chicago plant). It had a great red/white/blue "Captain America" paint job, which Paramount brought back for the '91 PDG Series 90. It has NORBA race geometry: 71 head angle, 74 seat angle, high BB, short chain stays, long top tube. It has U-brakes on the chainstays; they aren't terrible with Kool-stop pads, but aren't great either and they constrain the tire to 2.1". *New pics*: The pics uploaded today showing the bare frame on the nice wood table were taken at my friends' new bike shop, Goldfinch Cyclery. They show the new powdercoat (clear, with a little sparkle). You can see the brazing work pretty clearly under the clear coat. The pics previous to these show the frame completely bare after blasting (taken in the back shop at the LBS I work for). I had the original paint blasted off last year because it had some deep scratches and was developing some new rust spots. My friend, Andy, brazed on some rack and fender eyelets and then I had the blaster clean up after his work. Another friend shot it with a couple light coats of clear auto paint; this coat looked invisible but consequently proved mostly invisible to rust. Ergo, I had the frame blasted and powder coated last month. The following pics (bad sun angle on ugly yellow siding) show it rebuilt. The bike weighed only 27 pounds in that basic configuration! Last night, I finished the build by adding fenders, dynamo lights, rear rack, front bag (with basic tool/flat kit), reflectors, computer, and kickstand. Now, it weighs 34 pounds (shown in the most recent pics, with low lighting in front of some dreary snow). *Build*: The fenders are P65 Longboards. I think the Longboard P65s are only slightly longer than the non-Longboard version of the same fenders (maybe a little longer in front of the fork), but they do include nice ducktail mud flaps. The tires are 26 x 2.1" /559-54 Thunder Burt Liteskins (395 g), with tubes. The wheels are a set I bought from a German e-tailer. They're Mavic 317 32h rims laced to an XT T780 hub in the rear and T780 dynamo hub in front. This wheelset was machine-built, I'm sure, but didn't need much tensioning or truing. I'm using a 9-speed 11-34 cassette. The dynamo light is a B&M IQ Cyo Premium T senso plus (80 lux). I mounted it to the threaded eyelet on the left side of the M12 rack, using a Sheldon's nut. I haven't ridden with this light yet; I'll report back on its performance compared to the Luxos U, which I use on two other bikes. The tail light is a B&M Topline Plus. I glued the dynamo wires to the fork and downtube with Shoe Goo (held flat to dry by zip ties that I removed later); I'm curious to see how it holds up. The rear rack is a Tubus Logo Evo, and it's excellent. I like how the pannier frames are lower and rearward. They protect the dynamo light, and they help the panniers clear my big feet. The chainstays on this bike are only 17"/43 cm; it has NORBA race geometry. Some original components remain; the seat post is Suntour XC, and the 48/38/26 Biopace crankset, headset, and brakes are Deore XT M730 (new Kool-stop pads). I built this bike up for riding on gravel and dirt roads as well as commuting. I changed out the original flat bar cockpit for Nitto B135 Randonneurs, and used a Nitto Dirt Drop 8 cm stem to counter the massive 24"/61 cm top tube and so I can ride in the drops. Unfortunately, this short stem seems to make the front end handle a little loose. Probably just not enough weight on the front wheel. I've wiped out my front wheel on occasion when trying to take twisty turns on loose surfaces, like singletrack. But that's not this bike's mission (just an occasional dalliance). I've considered changing back to a longer stem and some rear-swept bars like Jones Loops or Albastache, but I really like the low/forward riding position. I just wish the top tube were 2 inches shorter so I could ride it even more comfortably in that position. I'm using Tektro TRP RRL black/alloy brake levers, a Shimano 9-speed right/rear bar-end and a Rivendell Silver left/front bar-end. *In my bike stable*: The KOM (built with drop bars) was my primary gravel road bike until I bought a Foundry Auger (carbon frame cyclocross disc-brakes) this August. The Foundry is much faster and more nimble, which makes sense considering it's only 65% of the KOM's weight (22 lbs ride-ready compared to 34 lbs) and fits me better. The KOM definitely provides a more comfortable ride than my carbon Foundry; that bike is very stiff and it beat me up until I adapted and rode out of the saddle more on bumpy stuff. The KOM will live on as a commuter and tourer; it's easier to load up with the new eyelets. It's still relatively fast and a lot of fun to ride around town; the KOM seems to like it when I bunny hop curbs and stuff on my commute, where my Riv prefers to cruise fast and smooth. Cheers, Tim Gavin Cedar Rapids, IA On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 9:55:35 AM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote: > > pics!pics! > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
