The frame of my Schwinn KOM had numerous scratches and chips, and some were starting to rust seriously. So, after adding some rack and fender eyelets, I had it bead-blasted and powder coated clear (with a little sparkle) this winter.
http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/Tim_Gavin/media/KOM/IMG_05861_zpsiigil83h.jpg.html Iowa isn't particularly salty (except winter, when my aluminum fat bike takes the abuse) and the KOM will stay full-fendered. So, I'll report how the finish holds up. This job cost me only $150, so I'd be OK with getting a new powdercoat in 5 years. Sparkle purple, maybe? Tim On Fri, Mar 18, 2016 at 11:44 AM, Belopsky <belopolsky.i...@gmail.com> wrote: > Yes very true. I believe even if you did blast it, this would still be an > issue unfortunately. > > On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 12:21:12 PM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote: >> >> I am not fluent here and tried to respond to other comments about it, >> then gave up and thought I could do it here & this way...wondering all the >> while whether this is what "thread thwacking" is. Anyway, this isn't the >> last word on it, just our experience and observations. >> >> It looks best and the way you want it to look if the frame is not blasted >> after building. Then you get the fire marks and general variegation that >> gets the blood flowing. If the frame is blasted after building and you >> clear coat over that, it looks like boring metallic gray with some >> brass-colored pinstriping (if lugs). Nobody will say *hey, cool;* >> they'll just think, *hey, kinda boring*. >> >> Clear coat is porous, which means water gets thru it and causes rust. We >> had a local powder coater assure us that it had an ultranew and >> supereffective way to protect the metal from rust, but it didn't work. >> Inland bikes, no big problem, but if you live in a sugar shack on >> Chesapeake Bay, it won't last. >> >> Powder coating, wet painting, no matter. Powder coating isn't the >> "bulletproof, no-nonsense, thanks for not making me have to think about >> anything" solution it is sometimes portrayed as. It was developed for thick >> steel tractors, as a durable, chip-resistant layer. The proble, besides >> being pourous, is that with powder there is no primer to help fight rust >> and protect the metal when it does chip. And powder coatings tends to have >> more micro-cracks than wet paint. When the paint is opaque, it's easy to >> assume all's well underneath, but when it's clear, you can actually see >> what's happening. >> >> If clear-coating was a GREAT idea, we'd offer it. It's used on show bikes >> sometimes as a novelty and to show how great the metal looks, but if the >> air is humid or salty or it rains a lot or something like that, it's not >> fantastic...in our experience here, at least. >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
