FWIW, I left the conversion of my non-tubeless Race Lite rims to a pro, and he built up the rim beds with several layers of tape -- IIRC, he used Stan's for this wheelset, but Gorilla for the SnoCats, which required about half a pound of tape per wheel.
With the Race Lite wheels, I had a problem in the rear, because the bead would separate from the rim when the tire was deflated, and it was frenetic touch and go with a good floor pump to get them to seat again -- these rims don't have the shoulders of tubeless specific ones. Vaughn added another "thick" layer of tape, and says that now, while the beads still separate, you can get them back into place with a "hand pump." This was the reason that the Kojak experiment failed: even though I chose Kevlar beads, and even though I had a pro do the conversion, the beads simply would not stay sufficiently put when the tires deflated -- IOW, it was only air pressure holding them on, not close mating between bead and rim wall. Just be aware of such problematic possibilities if you try a "ghetto" conversion. On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 3:58 PM, Reed Kennedy <[email protected]> wrote: > Can you use the thin tubeless rim tape like the WTB WCS that Mike linked > on rims that weren't designed for tubeless, like my Dyads? Do you just put > it over traditional cloth rim strips (I currently have Velox) or do you > remove the old cloth stuff and put the new thin stuff directly on the metal > of the rim, over the spoke eyelets? > > And again, thanks for all the help! I'm slowly catching on here. Sounds > like a fun project! > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
