I've used this front/rear-switcharoo technique before, but also had a
similar concern about the rigidity. The trick I used was:

- clamp one of the recessed bolts in vice
- drill-out the allen-head end
- hold it in place from below the crown using a needle nose plier
- spin the rear-brake down onto this now "coupler"-bolt
- use a M5 (or whatever it is) allen to tighten things up, as one
would a traditional nutted front brake

=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

On 12/15/09, Jim Cloud <cloud...@aol.com> wrote:
> Thanks for your suggestion Phil.  I'd seen this on some blog as a
> possible solution.  I'm not really certain that this method, however,
> it as safe an approach as I'd like.  It seems to me that the brake
> would not have as much rigidity as would be needed under hard braking.
>
> Jim
>
> On Dec 15, 11:05 am, Phil Brown <philcyc...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Dec 15, 9:41 am, Jim Cloud <cloud...@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Has anyone in this group had experience converting the Rivendell
>> > Silver brake to a nutted mounting?  I've found one reference on a
>> > Google search for the 650B internet list group that indicated it was
>> > possible to swap out the center pivot bolt from a "cheap" Tektro 800
>> > brake to modify the Tektro R556/Rivendell Silver for nutted mounting.
>>
>> > By the way, I'm aware that Velo-Orange is presently selling the Tektro
>> > R538/R556 brakes in nutted mount versions, I'd like, however to modify
>> > a set of the Rivendell Silver brakes.  This is intended for a
>> > conversion of my Schwinn Paramount P15 from a 27" wheel size to 700c.
>>
>> > Jim Cloud
>> > Tucson, AZ
>>
>> Put the front on the rear and put the rear on the front with the nut-
>> Allen-inside the steerer and accessed through the hole in the rear of
>> the crown.
>> Phil Brown
>
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