Thanks for the thoughtful reply, including the joke. I have found that
the infamous shimmy debate re the kog etc is a function of what kind
of rack connection one has on the front fork; if it was attached to
the front brake bolt, and one had a slightly wobbly load = easy to
shimmy.  Notable exception, nitto m12 rack which has a robust
connection compared to the mark's rack or other flat strut connected
racks, which tend to pivot around the attaching point).  And, on the
Kog, if one used the 2 top mounted fork bolt attachment point - no
shimmy no matter what the load, unless one worked at inducing it
intentionally.So re front loading on longer trail bikes, I've been
very careful with that, ie getting the rack properly (to my way of
thinking) connected.

So I'm not so concerned with shimmy, because with the right rack /
rack attaching, I think it's a moot point (also how much time does one
spend riding at high speed with a heavy front load (look ma, no
hands?)).   Back to my original ellipitcal question...what's gonna
happen if I swap out a fork, and i guess the answer is that I'd have
to find out myself?  Which then leads to part 2...where to get the
right fork...I guess back to the Kog list?  (ie rather than having a
costly one built for $350 just as a trial?).

I have 3 bikes in rotation right now; the kog with it's custom front
rack, a Saluki with a velo orange front rack / (which I put up for
sale as it's overkill for me, no need for decaleur etc etc), and a Bob
Jackson with a front rack and medium sized basket.  The Saluki and the
Jackson with my standard front load (10 lbs of my daily stuff) - not
great when climbing out of the saddle, or making high speed turns.  So
that must be the issue of trail (nb, a nice issue to have...oh dear,
trail is effecting my carrying of 10 - 20 lbs of 2009 era
acoutremont).



On Dec 18, 11:13 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
<[email protected]> wrote:
> rb: There was a discussion herein maybe a year ago about a guy who
> experienced some handling issues (shimmy?) with his Atlantis when
> front-loaded and riding at high-speed no-handed, and I seem to recall
> that he either re-raked the fork, got a new fork, or both, to achieve
> low trail, and he reported that the handling was more to his liking as
> a result. Later he got a custom bike built that was apparently the
> answer to all his front-loading/no-handed goals, but, curiously, the
> custom bike had fairly high fork trail...
>
> On Dec 18, 5:48 am, rb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Good point, ie how much weight and for how long - for me, it's 10
> > bulky pounds normally, and then a few times a week closer to 20 lbs.
> > For approx 20 very hilly miles, but continuous, so not a lot of start
> > and stop; so I really notice the trail and steering issues when
> > climbing 10 - 13% grades standing with 20 lbs in the front. With those
> > 20lbs on a back rack (and sometimes more, ie up to 35 lbs) I feel the
> > corresponding to front wheel flop sensation on the back, ie the weight
> > flopping the bike back and forth from the rear.  The front load on low
> > trail allows one to subtly compensate for this, so there is not a
> > waggle all over the road.  So....what'll happen if I replace the fork
> > (a bolt of lightening perhaps from Riv HQ?)
>
> > On Dec 18, 12:53 am, amoll68 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > Beautiful machine, Brian. Thanks for sharing.
>
> > > ATMO, medium trail is smart design. How much weight do you really
> > > carry up front, and for how long? When I put a half-rack of beer up
> > > front, I'm usually only carrying it for a mile or so. When unloaded,
> > > or lightly loaded (which is most of the time for me,) medium trail
> > > works great. I front-load my AHH and most of my other bikes - works
> > > just dandy. Trail is an important part of the equation, but it's not
> > > the only factor involved.
>
> > > Thanks again Brian.
>
> > > R/ Alex

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