Perhaps I so honed my shifting skills with a bent Alvit with loose
pivots, pushrod Benelux, and bendy Simplex Delrin, that anything even
slightly better is easy? But I doubt it.
I recall my old Herse, which I had equipped with a series of 5 or 6
speed fws, all pre HG. I forget what the rd was, but at any rate, the
same rd shifter HG cogs /better/ than it did the old fws. Same
shifters, too.
On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 7:11 AM, Steve Palincsar <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
On 12/03/2016 11:52 PM, Max S wrote:
Friction shifting should be by far the easiest to set up and
manage – just get the limit screws set up right, which you can do
without the chain on the bike, and you're good to go. So, there's
definitely something going on that would be easiest to
trouble-shoot "in person."
Friction shifting Hyperglide is anything but "easy". Yes the
shifts happen easily, much more so than was the case in the 1970s,
but you don't get the clack-clack-clack feedback to let you know
when you are properly centered, making ghost shifts (which is the
complaint here) likely. I will admit, though, 7 speed Hyperglide
is easier to friction shift than 8.
But I'll play online mechanic, too:
What hub are you running?.. If it's an 8-9-10 speed hub, a 7sp
cassette will most likely wobble, causing mis-shifts, and
requiring a spacer to fix.
If there's no wobble to the cassette, I'd check shifter cable
tightness when the RD & chain are on the smallest cog – if it's
too loose, the cable pull will be off throughout the entire range.
That may well be an issue with indexing, but with friction it
means nothing provided the lever has enough travel to take up
tension to get to the largest sprocket.
(Also be sure that the shifters aren't slipping mid-range –
tighten if needed.)
Also, are the cogs ramped?.. some 7sp cassettes (and freewheels)
didn't have any ramps.
The cassette in question is definitely Hyperglide. I've never
used an 8-9-10 speed hub, both my 7 speed setups are with spacers
on 8/9, but with that spacer in place they certainly don't
wobble. And the OP is using a spacer.
A 9 sp chain could simply be too flexible to get onto the next
cog without a greater overshift, requiring you to "back off"
right after the shift happens. (Shift happens...ha!) (In the
olden days, that's how people friction-shifted anyway, and then
some early indexing shifters – SunTour – even took that into
account with built-in lashback.)
I think you're confusing cause and effect. Readers of Frank
Berto's exhaustive derailleur studies BITD will recall that some
derailleurs were "early shifting" (e.g., Shimano) while others
were "late shifting" (for example, Campagnolo NR and SunTour).
Overshifting and backing off is required technique with late
shifting rear derailleurs, but not necessarily with early shifting
ones.
Lastly, I'd not mess with a 9sp chain on a 7sp cassette. An 7/8
sp chain is usually the same whether for a 7 or 8 sp cluster, but
a 9 sp chain tends to make noise and misbehaves a bit on a 7 or 8
sp cluster, IME.
In fact, although when 8 first came out there was a difference
between 7 speed and 8 speed chains today those 8 speed chains are
called 7/8 by the manufacturers, sometimes even 6/7/8 or 5/6/7/8.
I've never actually tried a 9 speed chain on 7.
BTW, I was setting up a "1xN" bike for my kid and discovered that
the rear hub was Shimano 600 of the 7sp variety. Due to a number
of considerations, I needed to fit a 9sp cassette on there, so I
just dropped the next-to-smallest cog from the cluster and ended
up with an 8 cog cluster having 9sp spacing. Shifts great, even
with indexing. :-)
Sheldon's famous "8 of 9 on 7" -- which for some reason always
makes me think of her:
- Max (A2)
On Saturday, December 3, 2016 at 4:16:00 PM UTC-5, Eric Karnes
wrote:
Hi all-
I was wondering if I could pick your brain a bit on this. I
ended up with the following setup for my Hilsen 1x7:
- Existing Wolf Tooth 40T Drop Stop wide/narrow ring
- Deore 9spd Rear Derailleur (with pulleys swapped ala Deacon
Patrick's advice)
- Riv Silver Downtube Shifters
- HG-50 7sp Cassette (12-32) spaced with proper notched
spacer on a 8/9/10 speed cassette
- SRAM 9 speed chain (narrower 9 or 10sp chains are
recommended for the Drop Stop ring)
Anyway, shifting is even worse than it was. Aside from
constant ghost shifting under load, it honestly feels like
I'm NEVER in gear and can't really ride the bike as is
(though I made a valiant effort today). Even on the bike
stand, there feels like there is friction when I spin the
crank. I'm not a skilled home mechanic by any means, but I
don't usually feel this incompetent! Oy.
Anyone have a similar 1x setup? And any advice? I'm thinking
of just going to a standard 1x matched index setup and
selling these parts. But that's a pricey proposition for me
and I wanted to see if I could figure this out first.
Thanks!
Eric
P.S. I know the logical solution is to just bring it to a
local LBS. But I'm having a lot of trouble finding one within
riding distance (I don't own a car) that even knows how to
work with 'retro-y' parts. I've pretty much given up on
cantilever brakes for this reason...after spending a ton of
money getting them (very poorly) installed and adjusted a
number of times...including once when the brake pad fell out
during a ride.
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