I had considered threading the top plate and bolting up from the bottom. The distance between the bottom bracket and the chain stay bridge was already tight - going up a size or two in order to get threads in the top would have been impossible. The bolt size needed wouldn't have fit between bottom bracket chain stay bridge. Still, i feel its silly that they don't all thread in this way, as its always easier to flip the bike over and have total access to the hardware then to try to come in at an angle and avoid marring the seat tube paint.
I did indeed mean chain stay bridge for the captive flathead bolt - no holes in the chain stays i promise :) The captive bolt means that you don't have to take the kickstand off if you have to mess around with the fender. I have nothing against cottered cranks, in fact I generally enjoy the classic appearance of them, this particular set has a little bit of play in the arms though which manifests as a bit of wobble in the pedal stroke. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
