I agree with everything Bill says (that seems to happen a lot), although 
IME with a 1x system you can generally run the chain one or two links 
longer than "big-big plus two pins," since you don't have to worry about 
maintaining chain tension in the granny ring/small cog combination, and a 
longer chain means the rear derailleur maintains a more reasonable cage 
angle even in the low gears.  

My first guess about the dropping issue would be a worn out chain.  As a 
chain wears it develops more lateral flexbility, and more lateral 
flexibility means it's more likely that a chain link inbound to the 
chainring at an angle will miss a tooth and derail.  I've definitely worn 
out cheaper 8sp chains (e.g. SRAM PC 830) in less than a year on bikes that 
get ridden regularly.  There's also a theoretical argument to be made that 
1x with a wide range cassette probably wears out a chain faster than, say, 
a triple, because you spend more time in gears with less-than-optimal 
chainline.  But a lot of that probably depends on the individual's 
drivetrain setup and shifting patterns.   

On Wednesday, September 20, 2017 at 10:51:26 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Such problems are usually straightforward to diagnose with the bike in the 
> stand.  Can you have a good mechanic look at it?  If you can't, my 
> remote-diagnosis questions would include:
>
> What exactly do you mean "dropping the chain"?  Do you mean you are 'just 
> riding along' and it falls off the chainring?  Do you mean that it skips 
> under load?  Do you mean you shift the rear der, and the chain jumps off 
> the front while you shift?  Something else?
>
> Whether or not the chainring is worn out is an empirical question.  If you 
> don't know how to determine that from looking at it, have a mechanic look 
> at it.  If you want us to look at it, post a photo.  
>
> Whether or not the chain is worn out is an empirical question.  Use a 
> chain checker tool to determine if it is.  If you don't have one and don't 
> want to buy one, have a mechanic check it for you.  If you want to check it 
> yourself for free, hold a 12" ruler up to 24 pins worth of chain.  If 24 
> pins worth of chain are more than 12-1/8", it's worn out.  If it's a lot 
> more than 12-1/8", then other drivetrain bits may also be worn out.  
>
> For just about all drivetrains with a Rear Der, the recommended chain 
> length is the same.  Put the chain around the big ring + big cog (without 
> running through the RD).  Figure out the minimum chain length that you 
> would be able to connect in that big-big combo, and add two pins worth of 
> chain to that.  If you did not make sure your chain length was "right" when 
> you set up your 1x drivetrain, it might be wrong.  
>
> A bent or unusually stiff chain link can cause a chain drop.  A bent or 
> otherwise damaged chainring tooth can cause a chain drop.  A 
> freewheel/freehub with a lot of drag in it can drag the chain forward as 
> you coast, which may lead to a chain drop.  All these are checkable in the 
> stand, and should be easy to correct.  
>
> best of luck
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, September 20, 2017 at 9:17:08 AM UTC-7, Jazzman Ruben wrote:
>>
>> Rivies,
>>
>> Are any of y'all using a 1x friction shifting setup? What are you using? 
>> Does it work well?
>>
>> I've been doing this for about a year/year and a half now. I pulled off 
>> the front derailer and cable, the stock rings off my Sugino and put on a 
>> "USAMade" (link 
>> <https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fusamade.myshopify.com&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNEQzmnjjxscMTYWpSyGGa4YALXJ7A>)
>>  
>> chainring on with some single speed crank bolts. Otherwise, the drivetrain 
>> (silver shifters and antique Deerhead RD, 8 speed wide range cassette) 
>> remained in tact. Initially, I didn't have any chain drops. Lately, I've 
>> been dropping the chain a few times a week.
>>
>> I can't imagine that I wore out the chainring this fast. I wonder if the 
>> ol' Deerhead is getting tired? Do I need an RD with a clutch? 
>>
>> -JR
>>
>

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