Really appreciate all of the thoughtful replies here thus far.  I think I 
need to try a few things out.  First I need to figure out if raising the 
height and reducing the reach is going to work out as I'm hoping (and won't 
just get balance further out of whack).  I'm going to do that with a higher 
angle/shorter stem first (from a 110mm @ +17deg to an 80mm @ +40deg), that, 
coupled with one more spacer should bring the Noodle back 2" closer and 
1.5" higher.  Then I'm going to go back to looking at bars.  

I had a nice chat with Roman at Rivendell today.  He confirmed that drop 
brake levers will only work on the curves...that's just how drop brakes 
work, and it makes sense now that I think about it.  So depending upon what 
I end up deciding to do, bar-wise, I'll likely either stick with my current 
bar end shifters and roadie brakes on an Albastache *OR* I'll just go 
full-blown swept back and go with an Albatross, bar end shifters, and some 
cheapie Tektro mtb levers.  

I must admit . . . I do kinda like Jeremy's setup with the reverse levers 
and thumbies for shifting though.  Something to think about!


Maxwell


On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 12:10:34 AM UTC-6, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>
> For my commuter bike I'm very, very happy with Albastache bars with 
> reverse levers and the (single) shifter a shortened Silver with a rubber 
> cap on the end, mounted on a VO thumbie mount. I have some stoker knobs 
> mounted on the curves where people usually mount their road brake levers, 
> but honestly, I basically never use them. I like this handlebar setup 
> enough that I'm tempted to duplicate it minus the shifter on my incoming 
> Frank Jones Sr, though I try not to duplicate handlebars among my bikes. 
> This setup gives a few really nice features:
>
> 1. The position in which you brake most is the least aggressive position 
> the bar offers. There's no feeling like you're going to go over the bars if 
> you hit the brakes hard.
> 2. At least three really nice hand positions: all the way back for 
> starting/stopping/climbing, hands forward right up next to the shifter for 
> "spirited" cruising in the high gears, and all the way forward on the 
> curves for maximum aero (it doesn't take much for me to spin out this 42t 
> 1x6)
> 3. As you shift to higher gears your hands naturally move forwards into a 
> more aggressive position, and as you shift down to the low gears your hands 
> naturally move back to the less aggressive positions.
> 4. You can brake from all hand positions except right at the very front 
> curves.
>
>
> <https://d2ffutrenqvap3.cloudfront.net/items/411i2q2o3k3i252B0X0t/D18F804F-348D-41BB-B951-CF0E66B998ED.JPG>
>
> /Jeremy
>
> On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 7:11:26 PM UTC-8, Bob K. wrote:
>>
>> You could do bar end (“reverse aero”?) levers with the Albastache, but 
>> then you’d be unable to use your bar end shifters. I don’t think you’d want 
>> to mount levers anywhere else on those bars, if only because it would look 
>> strange. 
>>
>> What about just going Albatross and buying brake levers? You can get 
>> cheap, decent Tektro levers for V or canti brakes for like $20. Could fix 
>> your geo/reach/height issue without even a new stem. I know that’s not what 
>> you asked, but I thought I’d throw it out there. If you’re really looking 
>> to stick with road-style levers, Albastache are nice. 
>>
>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>
>

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