I haven't been following the thread, but I've found that higher bars, for me, cause hand and wrist pain. Keeping the bars about 2 inches lower than saddle height keeps me happy.
Just another data point, Joe > Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 20:21:07 -0800 > Subject: [RBW] Re: Bar height and hand pain... don't know what else to do... > From: [email protected] > To: [email protected] > > 'Butt back' as so many have recommended may help take weight off of > your hands, but may also require an extra degree of flexibility if it > makes you stretch too far forward to meet the bars. I have been there > and (after getting a detailed professional bike fitting) wound up > moving back forward some and my hips are happier for it. If you do > need to get further back, I have a VO post I'm not using and wouldn't > mind selling. It's a nice post, it just has too much offset for my > current needs. > > Saddle tilt is a (maybe THE) key factor. If the nose is down even > slightly too far, you are constantly using your hands to push your > butt back where it belongs and the result will be hand problems. Your > saddle position should be neutral enough that your butt will stay put > with no hands on the bars. > > Raising the nose to the point that you stay put properly may cause > other problems. I am *very* sensitive to perineal pressure. Like a > lot of men my age I have a degree of BPH, and have had some very > painful bouts with acute prostatitis. It drove me to ride a recumbent > for several years. For years before that I rode with the saddle > pointed down to take the pressure off of the sensitive bits. The > result? Numb fingers. Now I'm back to upright bikes, and paying lots > of attention to saddle angle. I have had to face the fact that I > can't ride a stock Brooks saddle with the nose up where it belongs. > Too much perineal contact! A couple of my bikes now wear modern > plasticky saddles with cutouts, and they do work. In fact, the > Specialized Alias on my silly go-fast bike is surprisingly comfortable > given it's minimal padding (but only for faster paced 'sporting' use, > I wouldn't put one on a cruiser!). > > I have modified the two Brookses I ride regularly to look something > like a simplified Imperial. My basic procedure is to use a 1/2" drill > bit, drill out the three vent holes in the top of the saddle, connect > the circles with more holes, add one more hole in front of the first > vent hole, trim the edges smooth with a razor knife and burnish the > cut edge with a little Proofide. I don't know if they will hold up in > the long term, but the slot relieves enough pressure to let me tilt > the nose up, my butt stays back on the saddle without effort, and both > hands and nether bits are happier. I've laced the skirt of one of the > saddles to help it keep its shape and may wind up lacing the second > one as well. > > I also have some hundreds of miles on a Selle Anatomica, which > features a cutout. It too needs careful tilt adjustment to work > properly. > > I can't emphasize enough that hand problems can start at the saddle, > so get that right before making any other drastic changes. It may be > worth paying to a sympathetic professional fitter. It was for me. > > Bill > > > On Feb 24, 11:49 am, William <[email protected]> wrote: > > +1 on sliding the seat back as far as possible. If you have a Brooks > > and a seatpost with vaguely 'normal' setback, I'd urge you to try a > > seatpost with more setback. The S-83 appears to have a fair amount. > > Velo Orange sells a $50 one that was specifically designed to get more > > setback on short-railed saddles like the Brooks. > > > > Finally, I'd recommend that you make a conscious effort to get your > > sit-bones back as far as possible on the saddle. If that feels like > > it takes a real effort and if it feels like you soon slide back > > forward and have to readjust, then I'd add a +1 for saddle tilt to > > help you keep the sit bones back. I'd also recommend the following > > test. While you are riding on a flat in a straight line, it's my > > opinion that you should be able to easily ride with you body in > > EXACTLY the same position with your hand hovering 1cm above the > > handlebar (not touching it). If your body can't be there without your > > hands holding your body up, it doesn't fit. Lastly, addressing bar > > height, your brake cables shouldn't stop you from getting the bars > > higher if that's what you want to try. Don't hesitate to rip off the > > bar tape if it allows you to try something that might allow you to > > ride without pain. > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
