Ron, perhaps I misunderstood your post.  The picture shows two brakes, 
neither Pauls, and a note saying these are the brakes Paul recommends.  But 
perhaps your note referred to my previous quote rather than your pictures. 
 Sorry if I came across as overly argumentative.

Michael

 

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 7:48:44 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> those are the pads Paul brakes were designed for, and the only pads that 
> Paul sells.  
> Achieving proper alignment and toe is everything in brakes, and good 
> cartridge pads with some degree of spherical freedom is the answer.  
>
> <https://imgur.com/PS0TQNr.jpg> <https://imgur.com/KZ9MDRn.jpg>  
>
> The Yokozuna  cartridges took the Weinmann SPs from marginally scary to 
> more than adequate.  The Dura cartridges gave the CPs all the power of Paul 
> cantis (there's nothing beyond lockup), but of course not the modulation of 
> Paul cantis.  
>
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 6:41:56 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> Ok I agree that all of the popular style of brake design can be made into 
>> very good brakes.... but.....
>>
>> I have never owned or even ridden a bike with "disk" brakes, but looking 
>> at them they seem to offer two advantages.  First they can accommodate much 
>> larger pads; second, their position, further from the road could make them 
>> less likely to get grimy, especially with road tar & oil.  (See my last 
>> paragraph on this.)
>>
>> While all the currently popular designs are functional, good brakes & 
>> good braking relies just as much on three other variables - execution, 
>> setup, and maintenance.
>>
>> Many years ago I put a pair of Dia Compe hi profile cantis on a Trek 620. 
>>  They looked like a good brake with a very traditional design but nothing 
>> ever improved their very weak power.  I concluded that it wasn't the design 
>> but the execution.  About 20 years ago I had a set of Shimano low profile 
>> cantis mated to Ultegra brifters.  They were very difficult to set up and 
>> barely stopped the bike.  The brifters simply pulled too much cable for 
>> them.  Switching to Tectro levers helped quite a bit, but ultimately bought 
>> a set of Paul's neo Retros and felt much safer on my daily commute.  I now 
>> owe Paul my life, which makes me a pretty loyal user!
>>
>> Finally maintenance.  Recently, in a single day the braking on our tandem 
>> went from deteriorating to almost non existent. I cleaned the rims, which 
>> had road tar on them.  Things did not get better.  Inspection showed that 
>> the salmon pads also had black smear across the surface.  I had to file off 
>> a micrometer of pad to get back to rubber.
>>
>> Finally, there may not be a need for "better" pads but there is a need 
>> for different pads.  I find that the slimline pads are much easier to set 
>> up on bikes with wide rims, at least with my Paul's brakes.  In fact they 
>> are the only pads that will not brush the tire on their way to the rims.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> On Thursday, June 14, 2018 at 6:44:57 PM UTC-4, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>>
>>> On Tuesday we'll have some really good brake pads. I found out about 
>>> them from a customer/friend, who is not prone to raving and wasn't trying 
>>> to "turn me on" to his favorite widget, so I listened a bit harder and we 
>>> got samples. There's no need for better brake pads than Shimano or 
>>> Yokozuma...but these seem to be it, anyway, and they have other advantages, 
>>> at least in the V-brake version. I'm not sure if they're lockerupppers 
>>> (that has an odd political feel to it these days, not intended), but they 
>>> are remarkable, and if I didn't know what pads I had, I'd think wow, these 
>>> are amazing, I want more..
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 2:30 PM, Tim Gavin <tim....@littlevillagemag.com
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>> Joe-  
>>>>
>>>> With QR wheels, it can be tricky to get the disc rotor in *exactly* the 
>>>> same place as the last time.  The answer is to use the exact same method 
>>>> each time you replace a wheel.
>>>>
>>>> Through-axles make this more fool-proof.
>>>>
>>>> But there will be neither disc brakes nor through-axles on the upcoming 
>>>> Riv MTB, so it's irrelevant here.  Grant will build what he wants, and 
>>>> with 
>>>> the more "reasonable" MIT pricing, he'll sell all the bikes he orders.  
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Speaking of irrelevant elephants, I think "Olyphant" is a good name for 
>>>> this upcoming Rivbike, as it harkens back to the mammoth badge on the 
>>>> Hunq.  
>>>>
>>>> But not Timothy Olyphant, that name is taken.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> P.S.
>>>> Personally, I prefer disc brakes on most bikes.  But then, I'm #250 and 
>>>> have regularly been disappointed with the stopping power of rim brakes.  
>>>> Even with Paul Racers, I could never lock up the front wheel on my Riv 
>>>> Road 
>>>> (not that I would want to, but it's a measure of braking power).  It was 
>>>> frustrating to fully squeeze the brake lever and still feel the bike 
>>>> creeping forward.  And this was with very well tuned brakes with a low 
>>>> straddle cable.
>>>>
>>>> I just replaced the fork on my Riv Road with the spare forks Crust was 
>>>> selling (from the Romanceur, I believe).  Now I have low trail, rack 
>>>> eyelets, and a disc brake on my touring bike.
>>>>
>>>> My next MTB will have a steel frame, but will be otherwise pretty 
>>>> modern.  I'm starting to build up an All-City Electric Queen 
>>>> <https://allcitycycles.com/bikes/electric_queen>!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 4:01 PM, Joe Bernard <joer...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Well I said I was going to let it go so I will, but you shouldn't be 
>>>>> having to reset your brakes every time you pull a wheel on a disc bike. 
>>>>> The 
>>>>> pads don't come out of adjustment unless you're knocking them back. Don't 
>>>>> knock them back. 
>>>>>
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